Thread: trouble honing clauss razor

Hey all,

I recently won a very nice clauss on ebay with virtually no wear and a pretty much new looking blade. I can't seem to get the bevel set no matter what. I originally used one layer of tape except on the shoulder to set the bevel. The heel has become very set and cuts hair easily. Mid way up and to the toe the razor stays dull and won't set at all on the edge. If I look through the scope the bevel won't reach the edge on the parts of the razor.

I should mention I've honed a dozen razors so far and they shave grrat, no issues, even with the old blades from antique shops.

Should I add a second layer of tape to have the edge hit the hones the way the heel near the shoulder does? The bevel is geeting wider and hone wear is developing but not the bevel once pasted the lower heel area of the razor.

Thanks!

Edit: I've also tried every stroke in the book for almost two hours on my naniwa 1k last night and the very edge of the bevel will not get cut except on the hell end of the blade about the first half inch of the razor heel.

first thing to do is to try the magic marker trick. See which stroke will remove the marker marks and stick with it. It could be possible that different strokes on each side of the blade are needed.

I tried the marker test and it removed the marker all the way down the edge except for a very thin line of it near the edge. Also the waves of water are pushed through the whole edge like any other razor I've honed..

if you lay the blade flat on the stone surface it's nit straight correct?
Have you tried a narrow stone for bevel setting?

+1
Try 1" to 1.5" wide hone.

As mentioned, I've honed razors for quite some time (a year more or less on a dozen razors from antique shops they all shave amazingly well) and this is the first time I have seen this issue, especially on a nice razor. The blade is flat on the stone and I even tried using a DMT-E (a small one) to see if that would help. I have used x strokes, circles, half moon strokes, strokes with the toe leading, strokes with the heel leading, etc.

If you follow the water with your eye the blade pushes and cuts the water all the way across the razor. The heel near the shoulder is making hairs pop all over the place off the 1K but the middle of the razor to the toe is like a butter knife even though you can see the bevel with the naked eye and it's even all the way throughout the blade.

Now if you look through magnification it's a different story, on one side of the razor the bevel doesn't reach the edge even if I do 100 strokes on the same side without flipping the razor over to hone the other side. It's as if the edge on the one side is not hitting the stone (but on the very very edge where I need the apex to meet). The other side of the razor the bevel seems to be reaching the edge more than the troublesome side.

At the heel the bevel meets all the way to the edge through magnification on both sides.

Originally Posted by matt321

+1
Try 1" to 1.5" wide hone.

I only own a Naniwa Super stone 1K and a DMT-E 1200 interupted that is about two inches wide for bevels. I don't see how other stones would make the issue any different. I have even tried honing on just the trouble half of the razor while the good part is off the side of the hone to try to "catch up" the dull part (mid length to toe).

If a narrow hone (or wet-dry SP on a narrow strip) doesn't work then I give.

I was on the narrow DMT for about 45 minutes last night and must've done about 150 strokes on the razor and it wasn't set, didn't cut anything no matter the stroke I used.

I've honed rusty razors from antique shops I bought for five bucks to work as good as they did in their glory days. Why is this so annoying? lol.

I'll be happy to give it a try for you, on me, if you want to sent it.

Have fun,

Lynn