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  1. #1
    Scutarius Fbones24's Avatar
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    Question Do I need to "set the bevel?"

    I purchased a razor this weekend from a local antique store after much hunting for something in decent shape. I was able to purchase a "Puritan" from the New England Razor Company for in relatively good shape with no rust or chips for next to nothing.

    My honing experience consists of using a barber hone and my nani 12k to touch up my current stock of shave ready razors. I currently have a nani 5k, 8k and 12k.

    I know this is probably not easy to answer, but how would I determine if I need to set the bevel on this by going down to a 1k? Can I keep going on my 5 and 8 and see if I can get the blade sharp? There is no visible chipping and the bevel looks in good shape "with the naked eye."

    Forgive my honing ignorance, but any help or advice would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Just what I do with acquisitions like that. I try popping arm or leg hair. If it won't I try the TPT. If it isn't sticky sharp I try the TNT. If it is good on the TNT I might start at 4k but if it isn't I would start at 1k. I have gotten razors that looked good to the naked eye and felt good on the TNT but had micro chips or anomalies in the bevel that needed correction. I never rely on the naked eye but that is just my routine.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    Start by seeing if it cuts arm hair. If not try the TNT. Wet your thumb nail and drag the razor lightly across your thumb nail w/o pressure. It won't cut through. If you feel it sliding and not biting anywhere in the edge you need to bring the bevel to an edge, "set the bevel". You can use the 5k to set the bevel but it obviously will take more time than if you were using a 1k. Start with a marker on the bevel to be sure you are honing the complete edge. Don't move off the 5k till the blade pops arm hairs for the entire length of the blade. Circles for a length of time followed by10 laps, repeat until it pops hairs. Circles will prevent over honing. Antique shop finds almost always need the bevel set due to mis handling and cutting who knows what.
    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

  4. #4
    Connoisseur of steel Hawkeye5's Avatar
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    I look at the edge using a jewler's loupe. What looks fine to the naked eye may look much worse under even low power magnification.

    I distrust ebay and antique shop blades. Often they have been abused. If not abused it may be good practice to re-set the bevel anyway as razors that have not been used for along time may have dowdy steel that should be removed in order to come to full potential anyway.

  5. #5
    Senior Member kevint's Avatar
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    I dont think you need the thumb nail out of necessity- you do have eight other fingers; one of which may provide you with a heightened sensitivity.

    I do believe I can feel more than I can see naked-eyed.

    What else would you do?-other than sharpen it before using it! Of course you should; and a lot.

    I might even say lightly dull it and rehone with 5k until it shaves hair but the BK police would show their haughty expressions of unenlightened disdain

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    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    Yea, when I get a new addition to the stable after a quick cleaning I look at it under some magnification. If the edge looks bad ie chips or rust or irregularities etc you know right away you are going to have to do some bevel work. If it looks good then I try armhair shaving just to gauge things before I actually begin honing. Sometimes even though it looks good under mag when you try and use it the edge just doesn't feel right and then your back to the bevel again.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  7. #7
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    The naked eye tells you little compared to a well dressed eye
    Have a look under some kind of magnification unless you are the kinaesthetic type & have an educated TPT
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  8. #8
    Scutarius Fbones24's Avatar
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    Thank you for all of the suggestions. I am going to get some magnification and see where the edge is at before proceeding. The blade hardly grabbed when I did the TNT, so I'm thinking it needs some work. I really purchased this razor for this exact purchase. I wanted to take an inexpensive razor that I do not care about from antique store poor to shave ready. Again, this is my first experience with anything below touch up/finishing hones so I guess the only way to learn is to do.

  9. #9
    Natty Boh dave5225's Avatar
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    I would say , if the razor's edge doesn't feel like the sharpest thing you've ever touched , then I think starting on the 1k would be the way to go .
    Greetings , from Dundalk , Maryland . The place where normal people , fear to go .

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  11. #10
    Wee Whisker Whacker BingoBango's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave5225 View Post
    I would say , if the razor's edge doesn't feel like the sharpest thing you've ever touched , then I think starting on the 1k would be the way to go .
    I disagree. I would try to cut arm hairs or do a TPT and assess the edge. Unless it's extremely dull you should be able to get away with circles on a 5K. The amount of time it takes is a different matter and depends on the condition of the edge (and the whole razor, too), the grind, the steel, etc.

    We're taking for granted any hone wear or other such problems. Of course chips will need to be taken care of, but bad hone wear might throw a wrench in making this an easy process.

    Barring chips, excessive hone wear, etc. I think a 5K can bring back an edge. Then again, a Nani 1K is somewhere around $30 - $35 so if you had to buy one it'd be a great investment.

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