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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gugi View Post
    I have no idea, what your problem is, however the current production of TI is very good after diamond pasted strop.
    You have a previous reference with that razor, so the problem is with the honing for certain. I could suggest trying few different finishings and observe what differences they make. And then perhaps redo the honing, carefully observing how the tests you are using during the honing progression.
    I can see a lot of useful things in my microscope, that help me honing, but you may not have the resolution in yours.
    I have the radio shack special handheld. What type of microscope would you suggest and what would I look for on the blade?

  2. #12
    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonusmarple View Post
    I have the radio shack special handheld. What type of microscope would you suggest and what would I look for on the blade?

    The RS handheld with 100x magnification is a great tool, look for a rough bevel and rough edge, everything should look smooth. Any pits, corrosion, sawteeth, divots, chips, nicks need to go. The edge should be straight and the bevel smooth.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

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  4. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatMan View Post
    bonusmarple,

    I have a couple of C135 TIs that sometimes do feel a bit harsh after coming off the stones.

    I use a CrOx pasted paddle, or a cotton hanger with TI Pate a Rasoir to smooth the edge; I usually do 5 laps, test & repeat if needed.

    I find that once dialled in, the C135 edges last very well indeed.

    The C135 blades do feel different on the face compared to my other carbon steel blades; not unpleasent, just different

    Have fun !

    Best regards

    Russ
    This razor is one of the historic silver steel. I definitely should have mentioned this up front. Good to know on the C-135 though since I have one on order.

  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by nun2sharp View Post
    The RS handheld with 100x magnification is a great tool, look for a rough bevel and rough edge, everything should look smooth. Any pits, corrosion, sawteeth, divots, chips, nicks need to go. The edge should be straight and the bevel smooth.
    At 100X, the edge is a straight line, however the reflection off the very edge is not uniform, it alternates shiny and dark in an irregular pattern. I am guessing that is the result of some very very tiny irregularities on the very edge. Problem is, I don't know if that is "normal" because I just don't have the experience with this. Any advice would be welcome.

  6. #15
    JMS
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonusmarple View Post
    At 100X, the edge is a straight line, however the reflection off the very edge is not uniform, it alternates shiny and dark in an irregular pattern. I am guessing that is the result of some very very tiny irregularities on the very edge. Problem is, I don't know if that is "normal" because I just don't have the experience with this. Any advice would be welcome.
    After reading the above quote I am inclined to agree with the quote below

    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    I'm thinking you may have just enough of a wire/burr/etc to be uncomfortable but maybe due to the TI's hard steel it is not folding away as on a softer tempered razor & the edge survives the shave.
    I'm surprised finishing on a coticule has not smoothed it out.
    A few firmish strokes on linen, then a few laps on your finisher again may help if there is a wire.
    Any pics at 100x ??

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  8. #16
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonusmarple View Post
    At 100X, the edge is a straight line, however the reflection off the very edge is not uniform, it alternates shiny and dark in an irregular pattern. I am guessing that is the result of some very very tiny irregularities on the very edge. Problem is, I don't know if that is "normal" because I just don't have the experience with this. Any advice would be welcome.
    You mean like this ?
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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  10. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    You mean like this ?
    Yes! Thank you.

  11. #18
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    For my own sanity, I decided to start from a known point on the razor. I bought the razor pre-honed and while it was honed well I wanted to start from scratch to learn a little more about the razor. I ran the razor through the dilucot method and followed that with 5 passes on CrOx. The razor is back to form but one thing I did notice about this historic steel and/or grind is that the edge is delicate. I need to dig up the edge angle calculation because I have a hunch that the angle is going to be very low.

  12. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonusmarple View Post
    I have the radio shack special handheld. What type of microscope would you suggest and what would I look for on the blade?

    Basically anything 60x or better will tell you a lot.
    Put a hair or whisker under the scope, when
    you can see the scales on hair you have more
    than enough magnification.

    Look for the removal of scratches from the previous hone
    by the current hone.

    Inspect to ensure that the bevel extends to the cutting edge.

    Sometimes it can help to change the direction of honing strokes
    so it is easy to see the new hone erase the scratches of the
    previous hone.

    A problematic wire edge burr is also easy to spot. On coarse
    hones in a progression a burr can be considered proof that the
    bevel extends to the edge. As long as the last finish hone
    does not leave a burr you are good to go.

    Another thing to watch for are micro chips because they
    are local dull spaces. Too many and an otherwise sharp
    edge will not shave comfortably.

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  14. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatMan View Post
    bonusmarple,

    I have a couple of C135 TIs that sometimes do feel a bit harsh after coming off the stones.

    I use a CrOx pasted paddle, or a cotton hanger with TI Pate a Rasoir to smooth the edge; I usually do 5 laps, test & repeat if needed.

    I find that once dialled in, the C135 edges last very well indeed.

    The C135 blades do feel different on the face compared to my other carbon steel blades; not unpleasent, just different

    Have fun !

    Best regards

    Russ
    i would second that ti rasoir paste will transform that edge .yes my ti silver wing does feel differant . mine is finished on coticule and is very smooth but differant. i use d the ti paste when i was struggling to get the smoothness and it works a treat , i use it on canvas strop and the rsults are very good. other than that i would try 15 back and forth strokes followed by 30 light strokes in normal x on coticule . i must admit it took me a while to get a good edge of mt silver wing and my ti la grelot . once i did they shave very well .

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