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  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    If you havent done so already take a look at the SRP Wiki honing tutorials. Particularly the rolling x. This PDF of a 1961 barber manual excerpt on honing and stropping here is also instructive on how to approach a blade such as you describe.

    My approach to learning to hone was to buy a lot of vintage razors. I bought full bladed razors with undamaged blades and scales once I knew enough to avoid razors with issues.

    IMO having one or two and getting them to shave ready will not be enough practice to really learn to hone. Having one or two pro honed razors to compare your own efforts to is ideal. I did that and left them alone and focused on practice razors. Just my approach, not necessarily the best one and certainly not the only way to do it.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  2. #12
    Comfortably Numb Del1r1um's Avatar
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    Mjohns..
    I absolutely do not think you were trying to bash anyone, or you'd have probably dropped hints or named names. I also know that you were not saying that you were the greatest honer or anything.... I was just putting together some thoughts that didn't sit right in my head.


    Quote Originally Posted by mjohns66 View Post

    I am thinking what may have happened is that the blade may have not been honed except the factory hone as it was shipped out fairly quickly and one would think that it would take a minute to get it honed as their are not alot of them around and I am sure that my blade was not the only one that was purchased that day.
    I would bet that either this is the case, or it was a technique issue.


    Quote Originally Posted by mjohns66 View Post
    As far as looking at the toe of the blade it had grinding marks on the toe of it from when i received it. Now performing the normal x patter does not sharpen it at this specific area.
    Could you get a decent up-close picture of the area? It may help answer your questions.

  3. #13
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjohns66 View Post
    Okay I am a bit confused on this if I am correct I use the tape on the spine when setting bevel and during the rest of the sharpening process correct?
    At this stage it is good idea to do just that. Leave "bareback " honing for a later point in your learning curve,.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Del1r1um View Post
    Mjohns..
    I absolutely do not think you were trying to bash anyone, or you'd have probably dropped hints or named names. I also know that you were not saying that you were the greatest honer or anything.... I was just putting together some thoughts that didn't sit right in my head.




    I would bet that either this is the case, or it was a technique issue.




    Could you get a decent up-close picture of the area? It may help answer your questions.

    Technique issue is possible as I have said before, I decided to give it ago again tonight and re-watched the honing videos in the wiki (I had watched these videos a couple weeks ago) so after a refresher and following step by step of the videos by David Polan I could pass the HHT at the 4,000 grit stone.

    Now he used different stones then I did from there on in, but I just decided to experiment with it as I can't make it anyworse. I also did a bit of a "rocking" technique during the x storke like you would on a "smiling" face blade where you lift the toe and then the heel as you go along. I just "modified" it a bit so i would just lift the heel to sharpen the toe a bit on the first 1/8 of the curve as this to me from my limited experience would help me get the areas right under my nostrils.

    Well after going for it and following Mr. Polan's videos in the WIKI must say it was even better then before, so sounds like I will just keep it as is and just try to refine my technique as time goes on and as I collect more razors.

    I appreciate people giving up their time and for creating this forum with a wealth of information to help people like me who trying to begin with this wonderful new "world".

  5. #15
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    you need to lap the 4k untill the grainy feel goes . if its a dovo i don't think you will need a roll may be just raize a fraction towards the end of stroke to get the the very tip of toe. i would just repeat smaller pyramids on 4k 8k untill you can shave of 8k nicley . don't move on untill then , you will pass hht after stropping with linen/leather much easier . so master the 4k/8k when your happy at that level do another 5 on 8k test razor again. then do 10 laps on 12k and test again . if its not smooth enough do another 5 test and another 5 if needed 20 to 25 is all you should need and your razor needs to be shave ready at 8k level or other wise your wasting your time hitting the 12k and crox. when your absalutley happy at 12k just add 10 laps crox. use black marker see where your edge is making contact if your unsure .

  6. #16
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    i have dovo best quality and to say they are the cheaper razor all i can say is they shave as good as any razor and very smooth.

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