Results 11 to 20 of 31
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08-12-2010, 01:53 AM #11
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08-12-2010, 01:54 AM #12
Both A_S and Oldengarde are very knowledgeable on obscure naturals from your neck of the woods. If they don't chime in soon shoot them a PM and ask them to take a look at this thread. If anyone knows what was available to use back in the pre-synthetic days they probably would.
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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08-12-2010, 02:09 AM #13
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Thanked: 1936You guys should really look at that white amakusa i listed on other page...here's mine:
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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08-12-2010, 03:01 AM #14
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Thanked: 2591
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08-12-2010, 03:17 AM #15
I would guess there were many places to lay hands of some kind of sandstone. They were probably soft and constantly washing away and the very second someone invented a halfway consistent manufactured stone the places were these others were found were quickly forgotten. It has always been the fine stones that were hardest to create.
That being said I have an aoto that will turn a bur on a plane iron in 12-25 strokes. That's some hefty cutting there. Down side to razor hone mindedness is it takes a lot of downward pressure, otherwise it would never turn a bur.
If you read some of the old timey books where setting the bevel is discussed/ turning a bur; I believe they are describing actually setting the bevel-like there is no bevel at all. So what we are actually doing is re-setting.
It may be worth some exploration if you feel the need to be natural... using some heavy pressure. Of course you don't want that pressing directed on the spine. Sure it will likely produce some deflection at the edge, lowering the angle of the reset. But when you lighten your touch you will be attacking the steel right at the edge. Sorta like double taping strategy.
Not exactly the normal SRP way to go about it. But I do think many good honers will say they do apply more pressure on the foundation hones.
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08-12-2010, 05:45 AM #16
Prior to artificial stones, what people had was patience.
I've reset a bevel ONCE on a Maruka finisher. I ain't ever doing it again.
The white amakusa looks like an option, though. I'd never seen one before. I'll see if I can't get one...
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08-12-2010, 06:52 AM #17
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Thanked: 1936I have/use King 800 & 1000 bevel setters and they are much more aggressive and softer. The white amakusa is aggressive, but soooo much smoother and just seems to be "made" for that thin edge of a razor. It really feels a lot like my Shapton 2K. That's the only stones I have in the bevel range that I can give you comparisons with...sorry
You have to admit that the price is right...Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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08-12-2010, 11:26 AM #18
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08-12-2010, 04:05 PM #19
I read a thread some time ago about someone wanting to complete a razor using only UK naturals and was searching for Scottish hones. I'm close to an all-UK progression (DT, TOS, Charnley) and wondered what to look for over the coming months to finish it off. Once I find it, I'd like to finish a couple of old Sheffields with them.[/QUOTE]
Cool concept re: all UK natural progression. Sounds like you are developing a nice case of HAD to me. Welcome to the club. I have ordered a King Ice Bear 1000/6000 hone from your side of the pond. From what I gather they last a long time. Good luck in your quest.
MIke
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09-15-2013, 12:42 PM #20
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd just revive this one. Can anyone point me in the direction of any new information on natural bevel setters since this thread was last active?
Thanks.