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  1. #1
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    Default Honing a "military" blade.

    Hey guys. Now that I'm out of the Marine Corps, I got gifted this nice straight edge razor from my grandmother. She said it was my grandfather's back when he was in the service.

    Anyways, it's pretty beat up as you can see in the pictures. I have a full norton's honing stone set, and I started with the 220 stone to try and bust off a lot of the rust and pitting in addition to getting a bevel set.

    After doing 20 circles back and forth a couple times, then taking straight laps (10) at a time, I moved up to the 1k. After a while I was able to get the middle part of the blade to cut arm hairs fairly well, but the heel and toes wasn't able to.

    Upon closer look I could tell something was wrong with the spine and the edge. You can see on the spine where the rust was removed. And in the center, the area cleaned up is wider than on the heel and toe. That also seems to be the case, but to a lesser extent on the edge.

    Here are the pics.

    What should I do from here to correct the issue?

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  2. #2
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    it looks like your stabilizer could be lifting the heel above the stone. You have to hone it out until it evens out, or have it reground to bring the edge down. Appl ymagic marker to the bevel and you will see where the blade makes/does not make contact, this should help you figure out how to proceed.
    Stefan

  3. #3
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Welcome to SRP and thanks for your service. The marker Stefan recommended is a good idea to see that the edge is making contact with the hone with the stroke you're using. The visible wear from the spine to the edge won't necessarily be the same. That doesn't mean you can't get a proper bevel set.

    See what the marker shows you and than do the x strokes and so forth as the SRP Wiki describes in Lynn's pyramid tutorial. If you apply pressure make is light and tweak it toward the edge a bit more than toward the spine. I used 1 layer of electrical tape for quite awhile when I began honing razors. Since that is an heirloom you might want to try that until you feel good about your honing technique.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  4. #4
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    Sounds good. I'll try the marker and see what happens.

    In the meantime, does anyone know of this Mt. Lebanon Peter Ferris Brand?

    I can't seem to find anything online about it.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Oh also, now that a lot of the rust and pitting is gone from the edge, should I stick with the 220 for a while, or move up to the 1k? (This is assuming that I'm taking your advice and throwing some tape on the spine from here on out.)

    On second thought, before going back to honing the blade, I was going to try and clean it up. I took some steel wool to it last night and got a lot of the rust off of it. Now there's just a bunch of dark spots where the rust used to be. Pitting I assume?

    Anyways, I checked the wiki for restoring razors and ran into a snag. There's a section called "After blade clean up". What happened immediately before this step??? The pics previous to this section show the blade in similar condition to what my blade looks like now, but then it's mostly clear of any pitting and nice and shiny. Lol, What happened to it? Was it just MAAS polish, or something more? Do you need special tools for it?

    Sorry for all the questions, but this is my first time doing something this extensive. And the motivation is just too high to let alone.

    Thanks in advance for any feedback!!!
    Last edited by tmac123; 08-28-2010 at 10:21 PM.

  6. #6
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    I ended up just trying out some sand paper 150 grit on it and it seems to be working. I'll have to get something a little finer thought to finish it. There's just one spot that you can see in the picture that's really deep, and I can't seem to eliminate the pitting.

    Anyways, I'll throw some tape on it when I get home and start honing.

    Should I go all the way to the 220 or just start on the 1k stone?

    Also I'll try and post some updated pics now that a lot of that tarnish is gone.

  7. #7
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    I'm interested in this process too as I'll be looking into local antique shops for an old razor soon.

    Is there any way you can post pics as you go along in your process? The wiki seems to skip a few steps. And some of the video's I've found that show the inbetween steps show the use of a wheel, not actually anything done by hand.
    Last edited by thorxes; 08-30-2010 at 09:29 PM.

  8. #8
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    It does not look like there are ships or a frown to remove, I'd go with the 1k stone.
    Stefan

  9. #9
    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    You does look as if you need to do something with that stabilizer! Once done with that the rest will be easy.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

  10. #10
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    So I did the magic marker test. One side looks good. Even bevel all the way down the edge.

    The other edge is the picture. Hardly any honing on the heel or the toe. Is this normal to happen only on one side of the razor? I would think it would be on both sides...Name:  DSCF0871.jpg
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