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09-29-2010, 02:28 PM #1
Dropping Down from the 1k on Bevel Set
Group,
I know time and patience will get you a bevel set on a 1k. However, I was wondering if and when would you say that moving down to maybe a 400 to start and then move back to the 1k would be better served.
I have been bevel setting on my Naniwa 1k. A couple of stubborn razors took about 10 sets of 40 heavy circles followed by 10 heavy X strokes before I could shave arm hair, pass the TPT and move on. I was thinking maybe 1 or 2 sets on a 400 and then maybe 1 or 2 sets on the 1k would have been more efficient.
Any thoughts? Thanks.
David
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09-29-2010, 02:45 PM #2
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Thanked: 4942I normally will start out on a 220 when I can see visible rust in the edge or any type of chipping. I also start on the 220 when I have a razor with an uneven flattened spine. These are usually the razors that need a little more steel removed. Sometimes when I don't have a bevel I like after a couple sets of circles on the 1K, I'll drop down to the 500 for a set or two to see if that doesn't get the bevel corrected enough to move back to the 1K.
Have fun,
Lynn
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Alembic (09-29-2010)
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09-29-2010, 02:47 PM #3
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Thanked: 3795If I find that I'm not setting the bevel quickly with the Naniwa Superstone 1k, I switch to either a Norton 1k or my new favorite, the Shapton Professional 1k. If I need something more aggressive, then I'll go to my quite worn DMT8C (325 grit) or the Naniwa Superstone 400 or even 220.
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Alembic (09-29-2010)
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09-29-2010, 02:55 PM #4
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Thanked: 13249Three Thoughts !!!
Lynn and Ron beat me hehehe
Thoughts
1. Yes you can drop lower or go to a different stone for hard/bad/restoration razors...
2. Slurry is not only for Coticules and J-Nats
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advanced-honing-topics/58310-art-slurry.html
3. The DMT 325 is a very versatile plate, it can flatten your hones & stones, it can make slurry, or it can rip steel very fastfor problem bevels...
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Alembic (09-29-2010)
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09-29-2010, 02:58 PM #5
Thanks gentlemen. This was what I was thinking, but I was not sure how long to beat my head against the 1k before dropping down.
I now have a new trick to add to my bag of tricks.
David
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09-29-2010, 03:18 PM #6
I find if my 1k Naniwa wont do the job quickly I swap over to the 1k Shapton and that usually does it!
The 1k Naniwa seems to be a fairly soft stone and dishes out quite easily. Its also not as fast a cutter as the 1k Shapton.
I'm thinking about adding a few new stones to my bevel setting range: The 1200 DMT and the 500 grit Shapton on glass. I know we all like our J-Nats and Eschers, but having a few good bevel setters really helps as well!
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09-29-2010, 03:23 PM #7
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Thanked: 3795Agreed. All the attention goes to the high polishers when most of the critical work is done on the lower end. I borrowed Jimmy's Shapton Professionals last year and liked the way they felt but got somewhat inconsistent results with them. Regardless, I really liked how well the 1k worked as an aggressive, hard, non-loading bevel setter so I got my 4th 1k hone.
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09-29-2010, 04:48 PM #8
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Thanked: 13249
Oh I love it !!!!!!
You know, I believe we had a discussion on this a few times
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ant-stone.html
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Stubear (09-29-2010)
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09-29-2010, 05:25 PM #9
I finally realized I was moving off of the 1k to the higher grits BEFORE I was actually getting the bevel set. What I was doing worked great for garden variety honing.
I should paste this on my wall....
Thou Shalt Not Leave Bevel Set Until The Bevel is Set - Whatever That Takes!