Thread: Bevel is set... where to go from here?

Ok, I'm new at honing. I've taken a couple of eBay and antique store razors, and set their bevel on a Norton 1K. They had no rust or chips, and were just dull, no problems with warping or anything like that. Now they cut arm hair at skin level all across the edge, and I think they're passing the TPT (assuming I'm using it correctly). Earlier in the process, I also got them to pass the TNT.

My question is, where do I go from here? From what I understand, the next phase is the sharpening phase, and I should know if I'm making progress if I start popping hairs above skin level. Do I start somewhere on the Pyramid and complete it, and then shave test? Or does this mean I've got some work to do on a sharpening stone, before I even think about finishing? I hate to ask for a stroke count, but what kind of effort, time wise, are we talking about, before going to the polishing stage?

It sounds to me like the Pyramid would be a better place to start if my blades were previously shave ready, and just needed a little work to get back to that condition, or would that be good enough?

I've got a Norton 4K/8K combo to work with, also a BBW, but I'll probably want to just stick to the Norton's until I make some progress.

You really sound like you're approaching this in the right way, & have read enough to give yourself a solid foundation.

I must admit to have muddled through it a little. I have gained an ability to hone all types of blade to my liking, but have got there more through chance than I'd have preferred.

During my journey I have found that examining how the water behaves in front of the blade is invaluable, & that is key to my honing. When the wave of water "breaks" over the blade, I know I'm close to moving up to the next grit. It's like the blade becomes sharp enough to cut the water from the surface of the stone. When the water does this along the entire length of the edge, I tend to do between 5 & 10 more laps, then move on. Using a slurry for the opening laps will help the blade settle into the hone.

Another resource is a loupe. It enables you to ensure that the edge is smooth, & observe the scratch patterns in detail. Once you have eliminated the previous pattern you can do little more with that hone.

As for laps, or timescale, I suspect you already know there is no answer.

I agree with Ben.

To test a bevel, I like to skim the blade through my arm hairs without touching my skin. If I feel the edge biting into the arm hairs and grabbing/popping them, at all points along the edge, the bevel is good. If, at any point along the edge, the arm hairs just bend out of the way, the bevel has a ways to go.

Once you have a good bevel, you could actually shave with it. You would get the worst razor burn known to man or God, so I don't suggest you do it, but it will shave you.

Now you have to polish out the scratches using your finer hones. This is not to make it shave (it shaves already), it's to make it shave smoothly & without pain.

I like to use a jeweler's loupe. It was my grandfather's, it has about 10X magnification. As Ben says, when the scratch pattern from the previous hone is erased, you're done with the hone you're using. On to the next hone.

Some barber hones are prone to raising a wire edge. On these I like to finish by backward-honing 2 strokes, then forward another 5. Waterstones don't have that tendency.

Originally Posted by Johnny J

To test a bevel, I like to skim the blade through my arm hairs without touching my skin. If I feel the edge biting into the arm hairs and grabbing/popping them, at all points along the edge, the bevel is good. If, at any point along the edge, the arm hairs just bend out of the way, the bevel has a ways to go.

Ok, sounds like I've still got a ways to go. It's not quite grabbing/biting into arm or leg hairs just above the skin all across the edge. Shaving at the skin, yes, but not quite enough just off the skin.

Bear in mind that your arm hair may be different than other people's arm hair...
For me there is no way my arm hair will cut above the skin off of a 1k stone. For other people it does... Thus the need for tests that are calibrated and reliable to you.
For me, the best I can do with bevel setting is get the hair to cut very easily at the skin level. That's where I determine a bevel to be set for my arm hair.

Yeah, I didn't think of that, but it's true. I have stiff, thick arm hair. Someone with fine blond arm hairs might not be able to do what I do, & will have to do the test in some slightly different way.

I used to think that I sucked at honing. Sometimes I still do. Maybe it's my Minnesota upbringing. Anyway, two years ago I went to a MN meetup and Randy had just finished honing a razor and passed it across his arm hairs. Of course, they popped. I thought, this is finally my chance to experience a properly honed razor, so I took that razor from Randy and tried it on my arm hairs. Nothing. Just like with my own razors, my arm hair just bent over. When I was young I had light blonde hair and my arm hair remains fine, and useless for edge assessment.

1k level= cut hairs well, should cut hairs even above skin but nortons may not do this, I have dmt 1200 and naniwa 1k.

4k= hair slices more than grab cuts and scratches from the one k are replaced all the way on the bevel.

8= hair should cut mid height and slice easier than 4k, smoother I should say. Don't over hone here, use 20 laps.