Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,697
    Thanked: 830
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Noob question on testing edge at low grits

    The better guys on the stones speak of shave testing on a 4 & 8k stone as a test to see it it's time to move to polishing. Under 30x scope, the edges still look somewhat ragged there. Is this what you're trying to eliminate? Can you describe the feel you're looking for at those grits. It seems like a valuable thing for a Noob to learn about.

  2. #2
    They call me Mr Bear. Stubear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Alton, UK
    Posts
    5,715
    Thanked: 1683
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default

    Under my 30x loupe the 8k edge looks mirror polished. It looks pretty much mirror polished off the 4k as well, and these are the visual cues I look for to let me know the edge is progressing.

    When you say it looks ragged, how do you mean? Like a saw blade? Or does the bevel have a sort of cloudy satin finish?

  3. #3
    Senior Member jeffegg2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    735
    Thanked: 104

    Cool

    You should be able to cut arm hair easily from the 1k.

    Don't be so concerned with the look of the bevel, it is the edge that matters. When I received a Lynn honed blade, It shaved great, but the bevel was not mirror polished like I thought it would be.

  4. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    When I first came around I was under the impression that an edge had to be smooth with no scratch pattern visible to be shave ready. Then I bought some shave ready razors that were honed by master honemeisters and found that they did indeed have a scratch pattern. Some more pronounced than others. I use the TPT, hair popping on arm or leg, and HHT to ascertain sharpness. The shave to ascertain sharpness and smoothness. I no longer worry too much about scratch patterns. Micro chips are all I look for with the magnification anymore. Not necessarilly the right way but that is my way.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  5. #5
    They call me Mr Bear. Stubear's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Alton, UK
    Posts
    5,715
    Thanked: 1683
    Blog Entries
    3

    Default

    +1, I agree with Jimmy and jeffegg2.

    Apologies, I should have been clearer in my earlier reply. On my synthetics I look for the edge becoming progressively more polished as I move up the grits, but after my natural finishers the edge goes back to looking more satin finished, especially if I use slurry.

    My tests when honing are as follows:

    1k: Pass the TNT and then able to shave arm hair at skin level at all points on the blade.
    4k: The satin look of the 1k bevel is replaced by the almost mirror finish of the 4k bevel. Still able to shave arm hair at skin level and hairs starting to catch 1mm above the skin.
    8k: Bevel looks mirror polished. Can shave hair 1mm above the skin.
    16k: This is usually just a final 20 strokes after the 8k and the tests are the same.

    This is for the Shaptons on glass, but I use the same tests for each respective grit on the 1/3/8/12k Naniwa set as well.

    Then I go to one of my natural finishers. I dont have any tests by the time I get to the finishers. If everything was good at the 8k its all pretty formulaic after that: Just 20 strokes on the last synthetic finisher and jump to the natural.

    Then I go to my daily strop and do 50 fabric strokes, 100 on leather and then test shave.

    Hope that was of some help!

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Stubear For This Useful Post:

    pinklather (10-06-2010)

  7. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    2,697
    Thanked: 830
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Gents, thank you

    I was thinking that a 'shave' test was how it felt on the face, rather than does it pop hair on the arm, leg, etc.

    I have blades that come smooth and shiny from an 8k, but some of the harder steels continue to display a scratch pattern, some show microchips (If I understand that term right - jagged or showing some tiny bites out of the edge). I asked about the enduring scratch patterns and was told to try the shave, rather than focus on the clean, shiny edge. The wackers and a few vintage blades are pretty diligent on keeping scratches & chips. Is there a preferred technique there?

    Again, I appreciate your kind help.

  8. #7
    all your razor are belong to us red96ta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Fresno, CA
    Posts
    1,368
    Thanked: 446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pinklather View Post
    I was thinking that a 'shave' test was how it felt on the face, rather than does it pop hair on the arm, leg, etc.
    The 'shave test' is after you've finished the blade...be that 8k or 12k. The initial bevel set requires a test as well, but not a shave test...well...at least not your arm. The idea is to continue on the 1k stone until you are able to remove hair from your arm in the same manner a sharp pocketknife would do. Once you are certain that the razor will remove hair from your arm, you can say that the bevel has been set and move on to the next stone.

    For me, once I've been through the steps, I give it a shave test...and that means attempting to perform a full shave with the razor. If it's not up to snuff, I set it aside and pick up another razor to finish the shave. The next day, I try again at bringing up the razor to the point where it completes the shave comfortably.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •