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Thread: LAPPIN AND FLATTENIN
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11-03-2010, 02:33 AM #1
LAPPIN AND FLATTENIN
I've been flattening my stones with 320 wet/dry sandpaper
over a large piece of granite... and it's worked okay. But I think it's time for a purchase. I know last year the general consensus was to use a DMT 325. What does everyone presently prefer for stones 8000 and up?
Thanks!
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11-03-2010, 02:44 AM #2
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Thanked: 30I have a DMT8C that I use. I lap mostly Coticles.
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Zomax (11-03-2010)
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11-03-2010, 03:07 AM #3
It depends more on how hard the stone is than what grit it is. A DMT325 will leave scratches in hard stones.
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11-03-2010, 04:23 AM #4
I use Atoma 140,400 & 1200 depending on the condition of the stone.
I'll use the 400 on 8k if necessary but generally the 1200 is plenty as I don't work my 8k too hard. It's all the bevel setters that really suffer dishing & the 140 makes short work of the Shapton 220GS.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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11-03-2010, 04:48 AM #5
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11-03-2010, 04:58 AM #6
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11-03-2010, 07:44 AM #7
Zomax,
I have no 'hard' stones, so I have no experience of how the DMT would fare with these.
However, I use my DMT325 for my 4/8 k Norton and my 1, 3, 5, 8, 10 & 12k Naniwa SuperStones with excellent results
The DMT is so much easier and cleaner to use than carbide paper on glass !
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
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11-03-2010, 08:18 AM #8
I use a DMT 325 and it works wonderfully. In fact it's hard to imagine how I'd get by without it. The first time I used it I thought how silly of me not to have just purchased one initially, it does make life much easier and doubles up to do very aggressive bevel work when needed.
The DMT 325 works very well on my Naniwas which I lap lightly each time I use them as their surface clogs up quicky. Eschers and coticules it flattens nicely for me, without the need for further refinement, though I know some take to a higher finish like 600, 1200 and even 2000. I dont think it makes much difference as honing razors and using slurry stones quickly changes the surface anyway.
I agree with Dylan that it does leave scratches on harder stones such as Charnleys and Water of Ayr, both which I have. I may get a finer lapping plate but for now it works fine, and these stones never need lapping again and with use their finishes become increasingly smoother, the Charnleys are glass like.
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11-03-2010, 09:11 AM #9
I am very picky when it comes to scratches wether on a bevel or on a stone.
I tried Sandpaper in different grits up to 1.000 and it worked good.
It´s fast, readily available and works just fine.
Unfortunately it can get expensive over time and very fine shaptons may get inclusions from the paper.
So I switched to a lapping plate I designed myself.
It´s similar to the Shapton iron cast lapping plate,
but it is made of a tough steel (and later on I used stainless steel) instead.
I bought 120, 400 and the shapton fine lapping grit.
This method worked better, without inclusions on the stones.
But it was messy and not the fastest
Then I switched to the DMT 325 and 600.
The 325 is my standard go-to lapper for anything from naniwa through shapton 1.000 to 10.000.
The 16.000 and 30.000 I lap on the 600 grit, not that it is necessary.
When broken in properly the 325 will hardly leave a scratch but make the surface shiny and even.
However holli4pirating is right with harder stones, or natural stones lika nakayama or escher.
These tend to be scratched by diamond hones.
You might consider buying the dmt 325 for all your stones,
but finish you special natural stones on a very fine sandpaper.
Otherwise, the 325 is good for any stone (naniwa and shapton) up to 30.000
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walto (11-03-2010)
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11-03-2010, 11:51 AM #10
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Thanked: 2591initial lapping if a lot o work is required I use DMT XXC, then my worn DMT C, then 1.2k Atoma. After that on my Jnat finishers I have tried smoothing with coticule, or another Jnat finisher and both work equally well I think. I have not tired it, but barbers hone will work too IMO.
Stefan