Thread: Can I use a DMT 325 for bevel setting?

Originally Posted by Danricgro

Experts please check in on this as I am a fledgling honer. I have a D8C and I use it to lap my Norton 1k as well as my 4/8k. As long as you clean it off between stones you should not have to buy anything more than you already have to lap a 1k stone if you choose to get one. Hopefully I am correct because I have been doing it all along.

You are indeed. I've used my D8C for removing chips, lapping naturals & synthetics alike & (after plenty of good rinsing) generating slurry for my Nakayama. Works great for all. It's really one of the most versatile things you'll ever pick up, I think.

That being said, I would also say you'll need a 1K for bevel setting. I'd recommend a Norton, since you have those already.

It's really easy to make nice wide flat hone wear areas on the spine with a diamond stone - even one that is 600 grit and worn so much it feels almost smooth...

You can pick up a 1K King brand waterstone at Woodcraft for $25.
I have the 800 and 1200, both work well, and its very very very hard to tell the difference in performance.

Personally, I like the Naniwa super stones from SRD since you don't have to presoak them, and they dry quick. Soaking is a very long 5-10 minutes if you are waiting, and it takes 2 days for the Kings to dry enough to not make the cardboard box mushy if I put them away too soon.

The Nani's also develop a nice light slurry while sharpening, although the Kings only require 2-3 swipes on the flattening plate to get to the same place. The 1K Nani is around $32. To me the $8 is worth not having to wait for them to soak, or dry.

Both are around 3x8 inches. I have 2.5 inch wide stones too, and don't find 3" wide works any better. I do find 8" long is a LOT better than 6.5" inches long though.

IIRC doesn't Robert Williams use a DMT 325 grit for bevel setting fairly frequently?

I guess if you've just made a razor and the edge is totally and utterly dull, and probably a bit chewed up from the polishing/buffing process, then it would make sense to drop down to a 325 grit to remove metal fast and get that pre-bevel set before moving on to the 1k?

I believe you are mixing semantics there honestly,,,

Restoration and pre-bevels I use a 325 DMT quite often,, I honestly think though mine is like Larry's, a bit higher in actual grit now after so many Razors and Hones have run across it... a couple of drops of soap makes this really easy for using on razors...

Any of the 1k stones are bevel setters personally I would go Norton for you only because you already have them to match...

The 325 DMT is also a lapping stone and slurry making monster, so you would have a complete set up with just adding the 1k Norton...

You can with a bit of work use the 4k Norton for setting "good" razor bevels too, but it ain't fun....By good razors I mean, New, NOS razors, or recently shaving razors...


my 2 cents

Yes, you can do it on a C(325). If your razor steel is at all "chippy", the E(1200) might be easier.

Going from 325 to 8k is plenty fast enough, if using a fast cutter like the DMT EE(8k). In general, about 20 laps on the EE will remove 95%+ of the scratches from the 325; less than one minute on the EE.

I hardly use the DMT 325 or 600 for bevelsetting,
simply because the tape I use to protect the spine gets worn much quicker,
than the bevel is set. It´s that agressive.
Otherwise I would indeed use them more frequently for a quick bevel set.

A couple (literally) of strokes should do a nice even bevel.
You will need something for refinement, however. This means you will need a ~1k stone anyway.
You might get along with a heavily slurried 4k but I wouldn´t recommend it.

Keep the DMT for lapping and heavy bevel work if necessary,
and get a cheap 1k stone for bevel setting.
You might even want to consider a nice Coticule for bevel setting and finishing

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

I hardly use the DMT 325 or 600 for bevel setting, simply because the tape I use to protect the spine gets worn much quicker, than the bevel is set. It´s that agressive. Otherwise I would indeed use them more frequently for a quick bevel set...

I used to avoid the DMTs for the same reason. But, I got tired of spending so much time on the 1K. Now, I use the DMT 325 with almost every Ebay razor. In fact, I use my DMT 220 on a lot of very dull Ebay razors, (which by the way is quite tamed down after some use.) But, I hone with a twist on the tang to hold pressure off the spine. The spine barely touches, with just a whisper of contact.

Typically, I will use only a few passes; maybe 2-3 passes on the DMTs. So, moving from the DMTs to the 1K might take me only a minute or two. But, it saves so much time!

My progression is DMT 220, 325, 600 and then on to the 1K, 3K, 5K, 8K and 12K. My goal is to never spend more than 5 minutes on any hone. If I spend 5 minutes on a hone, in my philosophy, I should have done more work on the previous hone. (There are many exceptions; this is a guideline statement.)

I used to use the Naniwa 1K a lot to set the bevel. When I changed my procedure, starting with the lower DMTs, I found that my total honing time was significantly shorter. Interestingly, I concluded that my bevels were set better too. (I think I wasn't watching my blade angles and pressures sufficiently during my long tedious 1K sessions.) And, when I started on the DMTs I started thinking of the 1K differently...

The DMTs were for creating the bevel...
The 1K was for perfecting the bevel...