Thread: Wearing a path round the pyramid

I've just recieved my Norton 8000/4000 and have two dubl duck ebay specials that I'm practicing honing on to try to get them in a state to start shaving. While I'm doing this I'm still using my shavette.

I'm trying the pyramid method that so many on this site seem to use. Because the straights don't shave I was starting with the Aggressive honing ratio as defined by Randy in the help files. I go up one side of the pyramid then down the other, test on my arm which only removes hair via friction if I rub fast enough (yes... slight exageration). So I take a walk round the pyramid and start again.
In my earlier attempts I added a small amount of pressure to create an edge/bevel which seems to have worked and is much sharper than it was, and if I look carefully in the light I can see it. Now I'm trying to refine/polish/sharpen the edge. If my strokes were any lighter I don't think I'd be even touching the stone at all. I'm holding the stone in my left hand when using it to make sure I'm not using too much presure.

I guess my question is do I keep on going or is there something else I could try????

Your ebay specials need to have the old oxidised edge removed and a fresh bevel created. Use just the 4000 and 1-2 lbs of pressure. Start by performing the thumb nail test. This will give you a basis for comparison later. Pay attention to any feeling of nicks and their location. Also fell how much, if any, that the edge draws into the thumbnail. When the bevel is created there will be no nicks and the draw will be deeper and very even and smooth. Use an X pattern. I put tape on the spine of the razor so that there is not excessive wear on the shoulder of the spine. Stay on the 4000 until the new bevel is created using 1-2 lbs of pressure. Do this in a slow stroke. Don't try to go fast, you will just round the edge.

After you have created the bevel then you are almost done.
Just use a pyramid of 3/5, 1/5,1/5,1/5. At this point it is very easy to overhone.

(I really do have to update that Pyramid file)
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Hey Randy,
Thanks for the advice. I just need to ask, with the thumb nail test, you are trying to feel for the edge digging into your thumb nail without it gripping or snagging, because that would mean a nick in the edge? I want to get this thumb nail thing right because I don't want to do it too often. Running a blade across my thumb nail gives me the equivalent sensation of running my fingers down a chalkboard
Cheers,
David.

I have the same issue with the thumbnail test and yes you're testing for nicks and burrs.

Holding the Norton is a feat. It's a big stone and although it gives you more tactile feedback, over an extended period it may fatigue you hands. I keep mine on the counter top juast around or above waist height.

Throughout this it is important to keep your pressure steady and even. Really focus on it because it is essential to getting a good bevel and a good edge.

Keep your wrist in precisely the same position for both directions. Any alterations should occur in finger placement to ensure identical pressure from one direction to the next. I like to place my thumb on the edge side of the tang and forefinger on the spine side underneath. This creates a subtle torque which keeps the edge in gentle contact with the hone equally in both directions.

Lead with the heel, the tip trailing.

I also advocate a slight rolling motion where the pressure point moves from heel to tip throughout the honing stroke as it helps ensure that all parts of the blade get honed. It's a VERY subtle thing with most blades. Just be sure not to overshoot the tip or you'll wear back the tip.

This is a lot to assimilate, but take your time and try to stay focussed. Rushing will only waste your time and wear the blade out. Good luck and let us know how you're progressing.

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