Thread: Wostenholm honing

I started honing an old Wosty that I just rescaled. The blade was in decent shape. I cleaned it up but left alot of pitting because I didn't want to lose the etch on the blade.
The Edge was real clean to start.
Up til now I have only honed much thinner blades, like a Dubl Duck.
This is my first thick blade.
I was at the stone for a total of 3 hours before I gave up.Started on 1000 til I could see a clear bevel all the way down the edge, cut hairs on my arm. Then went to 4K, then 8k, using a pyramid that has worked well for me before. After 8k I just wasn't happy with the TPT or arm hair test, went back and started at 1000 again. Did the whole series again. No dice.
So then I went and started at 220. Big mistake. Left a real rough edge that took forever to wer out on the 1000.
Anyhow, does anyone have any advice on these Old Wosty's?
I know how important it is to get a good bevel at 1000, but I just can't seem to get it.

You are correct . Stay on 1k and don't go down or up until you will see clear bevel set from heel to tip.
i don't think(from pictures) you have set bevel yet.
gl

Did you try stropping after 8k ? If you had it cutting arm hair at 1k you had to be close to the mark. Might be an idea to lap your 1k stone after that many hours.

The pic is pre-honing.
I did strop, 100 canvas, 100 leather. Still not quite there.
I have relapped the stone, but near the end. It definitely seemed better after lapping.
Thanks for the comments guys...

If you were happy with the 1k but not the 8k result, you probably should either do more on the 8k or try dopping to the 4k. Once the 1k is where you want it, going back to the 1k (or below) won't improve anything.

Old wedges can be a bugger sometimes. Unless you put some heavy grinds on the spine after that picture you should be able to do circles to even out the spine and bevels. With what looks like a straight spine and edge that could help, personally I would tape the spine at times like this. Once the bevels where set (at 1k) I would remove the tape and RE-SET the bevels.

Thats my way of dealing with pesky bevel sets, and many people have different ways of doing that, so don't worry about it if you don't like the idea

What does the bevel marking test show?

Originally Posted by Kees

What does the bevel marking test show?

If your talking about using the black marker on the edge to see where a stone is grinding??

Well I guess thats what it means anyway

Originally Posted by DwarvenChef

If your talking about using the black marker on the edge to see where a stone is grinding??

Well I guess thats what it means anyway

I borowed this from Spinsheet: The marker test is done by light drawing on both sides of the length of the bevel and then doing a couple of honing strokes. Regions of the bevel that retain the marking are not contacting the hone.