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  1. #1
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default Strange experiment, strange, but pleasing results

    'Just finished a full shave with an edge that's only a 2nd experiment with a strange process. You may or may not have read a lengthy thread about variations in the c12k attributes - Glen having tried 4 before getting one that worked well. I got lucky. The thread showed photos of tiger stripe-shaped veins in the stone, saying the better ones seemed to have this. One side of my stone has them, though not uniform or very dense.



    I have tried crox on a leather paddle strop & not had much result. What I tried recently (2 blades now), is painting a diamond-shaped grid in crox on the c12k on the side that does not have the black veins. 15 edge-leading strokes on one smiling blade produces good results - good being subjective, but I like smooth a bit more than ultimate sharp. That blade was a soligen 3/4-full hollow with a moderate smile (M.E. Reppenhagen 'Diamondine No.7). The 2nd blade was a Sheffield (Jos. Allen & Sons Non-XLL), which seems like a 1/4 grind. 25 'swooping' (arc) strokes, 30 canvas, 100 leather. The edge was extremely smooth, though prob. less keen, but it is the closest finish I've obtained to the Williams blade finished on the asagi. This finish is what I would give a friend to try who has never held a str8 razor before - extremely friendly, like it knows flesh from stubble & doesn't like cutting flesh. (nothing like personifying an edge!) To yield a bit more bite, simply a bit more time on canvas does it.



    The part I find difficult to understand is that both blades were honed w/ tape. The soligen w/ a single layer, refreshed at each stone change, then 20 strokes with a 2nd layer of tape for a final 20 strokes on the c12k fully dry. The J.Allen was done with no tape until the last 20 dry strokes. I would think the tape would have kept the crox from affecting the last bit of edge because the crox strokes, done without tape, would be acting on the primary bevel, rather than the 'micro bevel' induced by the extra layer of tape at the end. But it did change the behavior of the edge - I'd say for the better. 'Seems strange to me, but I'll let someone else argue against good results. If this happens w/ a 3rd blade, I'll be more confident in recommending it. If nothing else, another possible trick to try. Another arrow in the quiver.

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    Kingfish (12-07-2010)

  3. #2
    Senior Member Kingfish's Avatar
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    One can never argue with good results and experimentation is one of the great joys of honing IME. Do you think that the 2nd blade the Crox was gently loading up in front and smoothing out edge? The Stone being so hard you kind of created a hybrid crox slurry strop stone. Cool stuff.

    It sounds like you have got to a nice place in your honing where you are looking for a certain type of edge and finding creative ways in getting there. Thanks for sharing.

  4. #3
    Senior Member johnmrson's Avatar
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    I used to get really good resaults from my C12k before I switched to Shaptons. Experimentation is the way to go. You need to find something that works for you and that you're happy with. I was telling someone just this morning that there isn't enough hours in the day to have to go to work and experiment properly with different honing techniques.

  5. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default 'Still puzzles me

    Quote Originally Posted by Kingfish View Post
    Do you think that the 2nd blade the Crox was gently loading up in front and smoothing out edge?
    The crox was applied with one of those large crayon type sticks sold on SRD. Before using for the first time, I rubbed the surface of the rock w/ a paper towel, to remove any caked or standing crox. The stone is completely dry to the touch when I use it, and to the hand, I can't feel the gridlines painted on the stone. This leads me to think there isn't enough volume of the crox abrasive to be raised up and pushed ahead of the edge. I could certainly be wrong here. It would explain how it might affect an edge that theoretically should be riding slightly above the surface of the stone from having a shoulder created by the micro bevel. Today, I tried on the 3rd blade - my beloved Genco Fluid steel, which was not honed w/ tape - just straight1/4/8/c12k with water. I wasn't using slurry on the c12k at the time I honed this one. I backed off a bit on the lap count, and the effect was there, detectable, but not as pronounced. I gave it 10 strokes. I may try another 10 and see how it goes. The shave was most pleasing, but the Genco always is. It was a bit more forgiving as it did it's normal magic. I'm on pins & needles waiting for an inbound asagi from So. That should keep me mildly out of my mind as I try everything under the sun with it. John, Shaptons?! I'm guessing you're liking them, and they're spoken of as boringly consistent and reliable (both - really good things). I tried one shapton edge, and it was just sharper than I'd ever felt, but harsh. Are you doing anything after the stones to smooth it out? Maybe you're not getting the harsh result, or like some, you like sharp enough not to care about the smoothness. 'Curious how you use them - I've not tried to use them, other than trying an edge from Glen (gssixgunner).
    Last edited by pinklather; 12-08-2010 at 03:22 AM.

  6. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default Update on 3rd blade w/ crox stone

    I was pleased with the affect the pasted stone had on the Genco, which was not honed w/ tape. I gave it 15 more strokes last night & did a test patch on the cheek - had to look to find any stubble that was mow-able at 11hrs growth.

    The test patch was as close and smooth as any blade I've taken to face, and the smoothness against the skin while doing so was also that impressive. 3 blades now with this little touch-up process. I'm liking it alot & glad to have the arrow in the quiver.

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