Thread: Sealing an Atoma diamond plate w/ epoxy

I've read a few threads & was told by other users that So recomends sealing the edges of a new Atoma diamond plate with epoxy. I presume to keep water/corrosion from invading between the backing plate and the separate abrasive skin covering. Most epoxy I've used is fairly thick after mixture. I'm afraid the epoxy will harden with small bits sticking up above the edge level.

Any Atoma users out there that have found a good way to do this sealing?

Many Thanks in advance.

I would think any epoxy that does stick up would be removed when you use the plate for lapping, but maybe someone who has actually done it will chime in.

I have and use a couple of Atoma plates, the older heavier and the newer lightweights and never had an issue with the film at all and I always lap under lightly running water.
I have been told that Atoma plates used where "solvents" may be involved will become and issue.

Originally Posted by lz6

I have and use a couple of Atoma plates, the older heavier and the newer lightweights

How do you like them? I heard they are real good but they are about double the price of the DMT and then there is the shipping. Are they better enough than the DMT to warrant the cost ? If I got one I figured to get the 400. Is the lightweight as efficient as the heavier plate ? Any recommendations ?

Jimmy, I have come to like them for a few reasons. I found no performance difference between the older version and the new "green" version performance wise. I think if you take a hard look at the manufacture/engineering aspects of the plate the claims that it is much less likely to let go of loose diamonds than DMT could be legit. I also very much like the fact that they don't stick to my Naniwa's nor my shaptons which I use a lightweight on alternating with the shapton lapper everyother time. I use an older version 140 which is a performer.
I got my newer one here: Probably to be shopped chearper, I don't know.

Tsuboman 'Atoma'. : Tools from Japan, Japanese woodworking tools direct from Japan.

Originally Posted by pinklather

I've read a few threads & was told by other users that So recomends sealing the edges of a new Atoma diamond plate with epoxy. I presume to keep water/corrosion from invading between the backing plate and the separate abrasive skin covering. Most epoxy I've used is fairly thick after mixture. I'm afraid the epoxy will harden with small bits sticking up above the edge level.

Any Atoma users out there that have found a good way to do this sealing?

Many Thanks in advance.

Epoxy is not like CA it does not get super hard, it is resin and can be trimmed.
5 min epoxy, apply and cut off whatever is sticking above the stone.
If you are careful nothing will be sticking out.



I have bee using 1.2k atoma for more than half year and it is a great tool.
It can lap anything that is higher grit , does not clog and does not release nearly as much diamonds as a DMT.

One can get them here in US from this place:
Ken's Corner
the price is going to be close to what tools from japan with shipping will be minus the delivery wait.

They also offer some pretty fine polishing compounds that have had great reviews so far.

Originally Posted by pinklather

I've read a few threads & was told by other users that So recomends sealing the edges of a new Atoma diamond plate with epoxy. I presume to keep water/corrosion from invading between the backing plate and the separate abrasive skin covering. Most epoxy I've used is fairly thick after mixture. I'm afraid the epoxy will harden with small bits sticking up above the edge level.

Any Atoma users out there that have found a good way to do this sealing?

Many Thanks in advance.

You can use any number of adhesives depending on how pretty you want the seal. I've used epoxy, plastic putty & construction adhesives. I liked the construction adhesive best as no mixing is necessary & you can apply a neat small bead via the nozzle as opposed to a big goopy mess. In any case it is best to mask off the work side around the edges with duct tape or similar & then glue away. You can trim excess with an exacto knife when close to dry. Not too soon tho as it can pull away. The aluminium wants to reject the glue so an even bead all the way around adds integrity to the job. The pic shows my 140 & 400. You can hardly see the bead on the 140 & no trimming is needed compared to the goop on the 400 I applied with a chopstick. Downside to using the nozzle is that it's slow hard work pushing thick glue thru a needle hole but it builds yer grip

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

How do you like them? I heard they are real good but they are about double the price of the DMT and then there is the shipping. Are they better enough than the DMT to warrant the cost ? If I got one I figured to get the 400. Is the lightweight as efficient as the heavier plate ? Any recommendations ?

No, no, it's just you guys are lucky in the U.S. and DMT's are half the price . Down here the Atoma & DMT are about the same price
The 1200 is very efficient for light lapping & slurry making. It will do all you need for your J-Nat & 4k & upwards synthetics. The raised surface makes them superior at avoiding stiction & flatness was pretty spot on for the few that I bought. I wouldn't use a 1200 for heavy flattening, tho I did flatten my King 800 & 1.2k . I wanted to break it in hard as I mostly wanted to use it as a dedicated slurry builder. Mind you if I was in USA I'd think twice re the Atoma due to price but I know So's had his 1200 for close on 10 years & it gets a lot of work so maybe worth it in the long run.