Thread: Diamond Spray Progression?

I just got both .50 and .25 diamond spray which I put on hard felt. What I am wondering is should I do some laps on the .50 before going to the .25 or just go directly to the .25 after my finishing hone which is a Naniwa 12k SS?

I have no experience with Diamond sprays so any other advice would be very much appreciated.

Go to the 0.5 first (after the 12k, of course). I think Lynn says do just 10 laps & test. W/ the 0.25, I'd probably start @ 5 or even just 3 laps & test. Let us know how you like the results--it's something I'm considering...

Danricgro,

I have both the 0.5 & 0.25 micron diamond on felt, and have found the 0.5 micron suits my needs best.

My TI C135 blades respond really well to both the 0.5 & 0.25 micron diamond

I find that the edge from the 'diamonds' is a little harsh for me, and a few laps on a hard-leather paddle strop dusted with CrOx calms things down.

Have a go with both and see which you like best !

Good luck !

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

PhatMan--

I want to know why you wouldn't just go straight to the CrOx strop, rather than through the diamond progression then CrOx? Is your CrOx .5u or .25u?

Also, anyone, does the CrO work OK on a hard felt strop?

Thank you.

A friend of mine has a very sensitive face, and also loves a straight shave. We experimented with all kinds of stuff, and in many different ways, to come up with the 'ultimate edge' for a pain free shave.
The best combination we could come up with was 1/8micron diamond paste, 1/10micron diamond paste, and ultimately 0.05micron diamond oil. These used after finishing on an Escher.
All pastes and oils used on balsa.
It goes without saying that you must first have a perfect bevel to make any improvement. This treatment refines an edge that can already be shaved with(off an Escher) to one that is nearly perfect. A lot of people don't like, and can't use a blade this sharp. It usually takes a little change in the way you shave- and some can't be bothered.
The number of strokes needed is up in the air. I use 60/60/80 and don't strop, until before the next shave. The diamond oil is so fine it is used to reduce thicknesses on electroplated computer hoodiggies. So a lot of strokes is not out of order, and doesn't take long.
It is most important not to mix the grits. Clean well between steps.
The edge does not break down faster. It is the same perfect bevel, polished perfectly.
Also, for metallurgic reasons I don't know, most razors made before 1840 don't ever get as sharp, or hold the edge, as the later ones.
Good luck on you adventure, the girls will appreciate your efforts!
Ed
quicknicker

roughkype,

After experimenting with the diamond-on-felt progression, I came to the conclusion that for most of my razors, I preferred going directly to CrOx (as you have suggested).

However certain razors, my C135 TIs for example, respond extremely well to the diamonds !

So for me, whilst not used for all my razors, it is good to have the diamond-on-felt in my arsenal !

I have used CrOx on felt, and it works very well, though I prefer using it on hard-leather paddles.

The CrOX I have is 0.5 micron.

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Originally Posted by PA23-250

Go to the 0.5 first (after the 12k, of course). I think Lynn says do just 10 laps & test. W/ the 0.25, I'd probably start @ 5 or even just 3 laps & test. Let us know how you like the results--it's something I'm considering...

Well the first blade I tried it on (Dovo Best 6/8) came out real sharp and smooth. I also got some .5 Crox spray so as time goes by I will experiment with all the combinations to find out what works for me.

Thanks to all.

Originally Posted by roughkype

PhatMan--

Also, anyone, does the CrO work OK on a hard felt strop?

Thank you.

Saw your post about hard felt and remembered this post by Lynn:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...ond-spray.html

Hope this helps.