Thread: How Can I Tell?

This has probably been discussed ad nauseum, but I couldn't find it in a search, so here it goes.

I have a Norton combination set (220/1k, 4k/8k) and a ChiCom +/- 12K. Additionally, I have a pasted balsa strop with .5 micron diamond paste and a suede covered strop with CrO2.

I've honed my razors and while they're sharp enough to shave with, the whiskers aren't exactly jumping off of my face. During honing, I test them on arm hair, and the blade glides through it with ease. But, my arm hair is pretty fine and my beard isn't.

So, my question is, how can I tell when they're sharp? What test can I do to see if it's time to move from one stone to another?

Thanks in advance.

I'd start here:

Sharpness tests explained - Straight Razor Place Wiki

But I agree about arm hair, and I'm running out of it
anyway. The Hanging Hair Test hasn't worked for me
even on a Feather DE blade. I'm not getting very far
with the TPT and the TNT seems to be helpful for bevel
setting, but that can be fairly well confirmed visually.
Most here will tell you that what matters in the end is
shave readiness.

Good luck!

Sounds like your shaving technique needs practicing. You're not going to be magical hair falling from your face effects but you should be able to shave if the hair on your arm is cutting nicely.

Stretch more?

While I agree with Nick (disburden) on shave technique being the most important part of the equation. OTOH, I'll tell you my experience with hair cutting tests. When I first came around there was an argument between those who said you didn't need to pass HHT to get a good shave and those who felt it was essential.

Early on I found that if my razor would pop arm hair without touching the skin I would invariably get a good shave even though that razor would not pass HHT with my head hair. Razors I honed would sometimes pass the HHT but more often they would not. So for me, I discovered passing HHT was not essential for a smooth, comfortable and bbs shave.

I have very fine hair on my head so I attributed the failures to that. Then I began to get some razors from Lynn, Joe Chandler, Josh Earl, Livi and others and these would do the HHT on my fine hair and shaved well. So it was back to trying to get the HHT with my hair. Even though I had proved to myself it was non essential to a good shave it was a matter of pride.

One day while trying and failing, attributing it to the fineness of my hair I had the idea to try it with a new Feather DE blade. Cut the HHT on that particular hair slick as a whistle. Back to the hones. So time passed and with my hair I began to have more consistent success and made that the benchmark I had to pass for an acceptable sharpness.

Meanwhile if a razor I honed wouldn't cut that particular hair I'd grab the Feather DE blade and found that there were some hairs that the DE blade wouldn't cut either. This was an instructive discovery and saved some frustration. I have a mixture of brown, gray and white hair. Some are definitely finer than others and I pull them from my hair brush. I've learned to identify those that will likely pass and those that will fail by sight.

To best pass HHT I've learned that the hair and the razor should be free of oil and grease.The root of the hair should be in the direction of the blade and better if the hair is washed and clean. I've seen it suggested that the hair is better hydrated before the attempt but I don't bother with that. TBH I don't bother with the hair being washed and clean either. May as well make it more difficult.

Held between thumb and forefinger with an inch and a half or two of the strand extending, begin at the point end with the edge of the razor horizontal, bringing the hair at about an inch away from your fingertips down to the edge.

If and how the hair is cut can gauge the sharpness. Clean cut, split but doesn't fall, catch and gradually fall away. IME the HHT can become an end in itself. Honing to the point where you can get it may give you a more fragile edge, longevity wise, that won't shave better than an edge that won't pass it.

Since I have been a professional tattooer for a couple of decades I've learned that we all do not have the same skin. Same with hair. Some guys have skin that will take ink like a sponge and others seem to repel the stuff. I know at least one member whose arm hair will be brushed out of the way by the sharpest DE or straight edge as if it was a butter knife.

That tells me that not all hair is created equal and some will rarely pass HHT no matter how sharp and shave ready the blade. Best to probably gauge the quality of the shave you're getting whether or not the razor will pass HHT and go with that. So take all this for what it is, my experience, when doing the HHT. YMMV.

My normal recommendation for new guys who aren't sure when to move up to the next hone is this:

When you think it is time to move up, shave a few arm hairs. As you do, pay careful attention to how much pressure you have to use, how much resistance the hairs offer, how the hairs jump when you cut them, how it sounds, and any other feedback you can pick up on. Then go back to the hone you were just using and do 20 more X strokes, and retest in the same way. Keep doing this until you see no more improvements. REMEMBER what the razor does when you can't get it any better, and that becomes your benchmark for that hone. You can then also do a TPT, and use that as another benchmark.

I really like this test because it has a built in calibration, which is extremely important. This will tell you what your razors can do on your hairs, as opposed to looking for a standard "the razor will cut hairs like X." This method of testing is also, at least for me, more consistent and easier to use than the HHT. But, you can calibrate and test with the HHT in the same way.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that when you max out on any given hone, you are maxing out on what you are currently able to get out of that hone. As you gain more experience, you'll be able to do a little bit better of each hone.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

My normal recommendation [moving through the hones] is this:

[summarized]

1)When you think it is time to move up, shave a few arm hairs.
2)Pay attention [to the results you get].
3)Then go back to the hone you were just using and do 20 more X strokes.
4)Keep doing this until you see no more improvements
That becomes your benchmark for that hone.

Outstanding. Printed and taped above the sink. Thanks!