Thread: First (and second) hone report

Can you post a photo of both bevel sides? I think you're saying one side is wider than the other? If so, this happens, its not going to ruin the edge if its what I'm thinking of.

If the heel and toe are off the hone when you strok then you need to torque (no force!) the blade on a tiny level while x stroking and keeping the blade on the hone to get the whole edge evenly. Hope that helps you.

Originally Posted by Disburden

Can you post a photo of both bevel sides? I think you're saying one side is wider than the other? If so, this happens, its not going to ruin the edge if its what I'm thinking of.

.

Very nice advice. Don't worry about the hone wear on the spine of the blade. what is important is your cutting edge.
gl

Here is a photo (if I pull this off) of my Army Special with the "bevel" next to a Puma 52 with what appears to me to be a far more correct and attractive bevel. The length of the side of the bevel on the Army Special is many times the height of the bevel on the Puma, which was done by a honemeister on this forum. I shaved with the Army Special this morning, and it shaved like all my honing attempts have: lousy. It cut a few hairs then gave up the ghost. I'm guessing that I have made the steel at the edge too thin to stand up to whiskers. I haven't shaved with the Puma yet, but it is looking more attractive all the time.

ace,

The dimension of the bevel is a function of edge thickness: the thicker the blade is at the edge, the longer, higher, more obvious the bevel will be. So long as the bevel on on side meets the bevel from the other side at this mini-micro invisible edge and with some various fine grit polishing, you will have your razor's edge. Old wedges had long bevels and seem to have shaved just fine. It's just there is more material to remove to get to that point with a thicker razor and it takes longer to achieve desired sharpness.

Originally Posted by Bruce

ace,

The dimension of the bevel is a function of edge thickness: the thicker the blade is at the edge, the longer, higher, more obvious the bevel will be. So long as the bevel on on side meets the bevel from the other side at this mini-micro invisible edge and with some various fine grit polishing, you will have your razor's edge. Old wedges had long bevels and seem to have shaved just fine. It's just there is more material to remove to get to that point with a thicker razor and it takes longer to achieve desired sharpness.

I think the obviousness of my bevel here is not a function of the thickness of steel at the edge, but a result of lousy honing, way too much pressure. It took me literally 8 hours of honing on 220, and I think I just tired of it and used too much pressure just to get done with it.
That is certainly a problem that I created, and I know that the breadknifing was the cause of it. I breadknifed it to get rid of the previous unsightly bevel, and ironically I created another one in the process. The result, I think, was an edge that was too thin, and one pass WTG wore it down to the point where it wouldn't cut hair. All I can do is await another practice blade (on the way) that I can make a honing attempt with without breadknifing it. Thanks for your comment.

In the first picture you can see a normal (to my eyes) bevel. In the second, it's almost nonexistent except for the toe.

So, big deal or no? Something I should be able to fix with proper technique?

This may be an indication that my hones aren't perfectly lapped (I used the Norton leveling stone, but a DMT may be in my future) or proof that the tiny warp I mentioned exists. I'm not sure if you can see it, but the edge is slightly wider in the middle on the side with a wedge. One thought I had...less than perfect technique should prevent a flaw from showing up perfectly, right? Think about it.

I got the latest victim...er, restore candiate in the mail and I'm going to give it a try this weeken and see what I get.

--David

I'm hardly the one to give you advice, but that won't stop me. As for whether the following statement is true, I'm not sure.

"less than perfect technique should prevent a flaw from showing up perfectly, right? Think about it."

I think actually honing may be easier than figuring this out. Certainly, the concept of a flaw showing up perfectly is a bit odd, but I think I know what you are getting at. Imperfect technique will generate flaws perhaps that cover up other flaws, that much I know and have proved it. But enough of word games, as much as I enjoy them. Your questions, then:

I think I see a warp in the top photo, not so sure in the second, but that is how my blade was. It was much more obvious on one side.

I think you can put that blade right if the warp is not too severe. If not, what you will have is a really weird steak knife, but that is the only meat I would put it next to.

Have fun with it. I'm looking for some victims too.

I'll try to get a shot of it tonight. I think I might be able to capture both the bevel difference and the slight warp. Thanks for the advice.