Thread: Lynn's Tips #2

Watched about 1/2 of Lynn's video and I get the pyramid thing.....

His example:

w/ Norton 4000/8000

3 x 4000 & 3 x 8000
1 x 4000 & 3 x 8000
1 x 4000 & 5 x 8000

Minimize the number of strokes

YMMV based on condition of the razor, grind, type of steel etc etc

I think I got this right....

Ken

I would recommend the reading path.

Lynn

Go to the home page find the library and check out the permanent archives. All you might want to know about honing pyramids is there in detail. Also much much more.

Good reading!!!!

Originally Posted by mkilar

All-

I had difficulty with the Norton stones, the 200/1k, and the 4k/8k, as they seemed to cut really fast. I'm sort of a perfectionist on these things, as I have been sharpening everything from tools to knives to str8 razors over the years.

Anyway, I came across a company selling Japanese water stones. After I submitted my order, they actually called me back and we discussed the purpose for the stones. I explained that as slow as I could go, and as light a touch as possible, I wasn't achieving the perfect edge... I was coming darn close though. The rep told me he had stones from a mountain in Japan that had collapsed and they mined these superb stones. I ended up getting an 8k and a 12k.

To make a long story short, the new stones are perfect. They're very soft, and create a sort of 'mud' as you sharpen. This is supposed to be good. Anyway, my edges are near perfection, and this is before I even strop!! For anyone interested I can provide the company's url.

Mark

Hi, I'm new here. I am very interested in Japanese waterstones having heard good things about them. I am very interested in the url for the company you mentioned. I would really appreciate any help you could give me. My email is available for members here to get in touch with me.

Lynn's DVD is the answer to the pyramid and so many other questions that you are going to have. Get one soon.

maybe a dumb question but, why go back to a course grit after a highergrit? what does that do for honing? why not just use one than the other?

Originally Posted by OreBaron

maybe a dumb question but, why go back to a course grit after a highergrit? what does that do for honing? why not just use one than the other?

Thanks for posting this. It doesn't seem a dumb question to me. Sometimes I polish metal and after using one grit wouldn't drop down to a coarser grit at all.

I also clean the surface completely when moving from a coarser grit to a finer grit. I noticed that Lynn (in his DVD) doesn't rinse off the 4000 grit before going to the 8000 grit. Wouldn't it be better to rinse the razor so as to not contaminate the 8000 side with 4000 grit material?

Thanks,

Matt

Just look at lynn's tips no.1. At the end of the post it is explained.

I am so close to pulling the trigger on the Naniwa three stone set (5K, 8K, 12K) on Straight Razor Designs for $173.99

Are there any better options out there? I do not have any hones yet...

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Lynn

Depending on how far up the edge the shiney part is will be an indication of how much work you will have to do. If shiney all the way to the cutting part of the edge, you can start with a regular honing pyramid.

Good Luck.

Lynn

For my Spyderco knifes i use a black Edding marker on the edge, to see where i am. When i hone a new knife its not easy to see where i am honing. Mybe this can be used for razors too.