Thread: Help

Greetings,

I am on my first restore, and now my first honing. However long I honed this razor on the 1k, there remained a 1/3 inch at the heel that didn't even seem to touch the hone, while the spine above the heel kept shedding metal.

I thought my DMT would do the trick of removing enough metal for the whole length of the blade to touch the hone and hence get honed, but the same problem remains.

There's also a 1/4 inch at the tip that isn't honed, but the blade smiles sliightly, so there's an explanation for that part.

Thanks for any input,

Fred

Originally Posted by Fredo456

Greetings,

I am on my first restore, and now my first honing. However long I honed this razor on the 1k, there remained a 1/3 inch at the heel that didn't even seem to touch the hone, while the spine above the heel kept shedding metal.

I thought my DMT would do the trick of removing enough metal for the whole length of the blade to touch the hone and hence get honed, but the same problem remains.

There's also a 1/4 inch at the tip that isn't honed, but the blade smiles sliightly, so there's an explanation for that part.

Thanks for any input,

Fred

you may have warped blade.
use circular motion and hone .
stay 1 k until you set bevel from heel to the tip.
gl

Wouldn't a warped blade be honed only on the tips on one side, and only on the middle on the other side?

Like ._ _. and . __ . (In this "diagram", the periods (.) are the limits of the blade and the underscores are the sharpened parts)

If so, mine isn't warped, it's . __ . on both sides.

Thanks again.

Sounds to me like a smiling blade from what you're saying. Try doing rolling circles and rolling X strokes on your 1k hone to get the ends of the blade.

I've had a fair few blades like this and that rolling technique really helped get an even bevel the whole way along the edge.

Originally Posted by Fredo456

Wouldn't a warped blade be honed only on the tips on one side, and only on the middle on the other side?

Like ._ _. and . __ . (In this "diagram", the periods (.) are the limits of the blade and the underscores are the sharpened parts)

If so, mine isn't warped, it's . __ . on both sides.

Thanks again.

IT DEPENDS location of the warping.
Try what we suggested and see what happens.
let us know.
EDIT.
i think i have miss very important point. i went back and did read your OP.
this is what you said. Basically heel and tip side of the blade doesn't get honed?
will warping do this ? answer yes?
Do i think that is the problem you are having? i doubt it.
You said you have restored this blade?
This is very important point.
You may made mistake while you restore the blade unintentionally have take some edge away from heel side and tip side without taking out enough metal from the spine.
Now you will need to remove enough metal from spine that you edge (heel and tip side of the blade) will contact the hone.

When that will happen? when you have enough metal remove and fix the angle.
Don't tape the spine thinking that you will save the spine. you must have proper angle to make that blade useable(right way)
hope this helps.

#&*$?( @& #%?*(* @#&%*(?$(!!!!!!!

I am soooooo PO'd.

I successfully (I think/hope/will never see) honed the blade with swaying x-strokes. The bevel was set the whole length of the blade. I then did the pyramid starting at 25-25 strokes on the 4k/8k, and then about 100 strokes on the C12k. Up 'till then, I was pretty satisfied and almost confident about my endeavour. Eventhough I didn't cut arm hair, the TPT was satisfying.

I then had to re-pin the razor, (which the next time will be done right after sanding) during which I unfortunately touched the edge on the scales and on my workstation. Lightly, but still... I will probably have to re-hone it.

But then, as I was repinning, the scale broke at the pivot on my last hammering. Maybe even after I was done: when I opened the razor..

I read a lot about how to restore razors, and yet nowhere did I see "don't pin it too tight, the scales will break!". Sigh. Now this razor will take a back seat until I feel like making scales (and buying all the equipment it requires). I have a bunch of other razors to practice anyway.

Well thanks guys for the help. Now it's time for a break and a beer.

Cheers,

Fred

Dont even consider honing the blade until all else is finished, otherwise you are asking for trouble, which you now know.

What size holes did you drill, and what size rod were you using????

I'm thinking maybe overly tight pin prior to peening too. A flaw in the timber, an errant tap etc &... disaster ! I'm assuming timber scales.
Hang in there. This stuff has happened to all of us. A beer & a break is good idea

This is the razor I received via E-Bay . I didn't have to drill any holes, I just tried to put back the scales that were already there.

I guess I tightened it too much, with the inside washers (between the blade and scales) maybe not flat enough. To my defense (even if it isn't really one) the holes weren't centered, and it broke on the side they were on.

Sorry onimaru55, they weren't timber, they were some sort uf rubbery plastic. Pretty common scales, I think.

Anyway, maybe the blade will fit with the scales of a Boker broken blade I have.

Tomorrow, though, I sand and maybe hone a Lauterjung Tiger.