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03-23-2011, 05:15 PM #1
honing tests
Just an opinion -- the most useful test for anyone just beginning to hone is the "sitting around the table drinking coffee and honing with people even more blade-crazy than you" test. I learned more in a morning or two with JoeD, Holli, and Lynn than in untold hours by myself. Put out a call for help in your area, or go to a meet.
OK, I'm still a beginner --- but maybe I'm an "advanced" beginner.
Oh, and -- good luck with that hanging hair thing -- I think it's a lot more hair-specific than blade-specific.Don't get hung up on hanging hairs.
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03-23-2011, 05:20 PM #2
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
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- 69
Thanked: 1Just an idea: Maybe someone can supply "standardized hairs" for razor testing. It would take some uncertainty out of it.
I agree, there is nothing like learning from the masters in person.
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03-23-2011, 05:27 PM #3
There is no need for that. You just need to learn and calibrate the test to whatever hair you use. (BTW, this would be true even with standardized hair.) This is true of every test you do, but since the HHT is, for whatever reason, so widely publicized, the variables in it seem to be highlighted.
Consider this, having hones and having watched someone hone a razor doesn't mean you can hone well. Having a razor and a hair and having watched someone do the HHT DOESN'T mean you can perform the test and determine what the result means accurately.Last edited by holli4pirating; 03-23-2011 at 05:29 PM.
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03-23-2011, 06:14 PM #4
Sharpness Tests
IMHO the only true test for me is how the razor feels as I shave with it. I've seen lots of pictures of a hair being dropped on a blade but that does not give me the information that is useable. I say away from the edge of my razor unless my ugly mug has been properly prepared with lather so I can use my razor to shave it.
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03-23-2011, 06:22 PM #5
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- Mar 2011
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Thanked: 1So, I can use each stone, running various tests every 20 laps or so. Keep using the same stone as long as there is improvement. When there is no more improvement, note the test results for future reference, and proceed to the next stone.
On the next honing session, work each stone to reproduce test results from the previous session.
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03-23-2011, 06:46 PM #6
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03-23-2011, 06:41 PM #7
FWIW, in my brief history of learning to hone, I have made a few observations that may or may not be helpful. First off, there is no "real" answer to any honing question, only what others have had luck/success with, as the variables are too many to count. So what you need to focus on is learning with what you have. Honing falls into 2 parts. First you set the bevel (make your razor sharp), then on the 4/8k range you work on polishing and refining that edge.
Here are a few things that I find helpful when honing.
Setting the bevel is THE MOST important step. depending on your razors condition this may take LOTS of time and LOTS of pressure. Do not be afraid to do this. as the bevel gets dialed in, shave your arm hair frequently, from dull to sharp you will notice it beginning to feel and cut differently, like so:
Dull-
-glides over hair, not really cutting, more like pushing them down, keep honing
-then will glide over hair and catch a few, keep honing
-will cut more hair and start to feel scratchy on your skin, keep honing,
-hairs will cut with less effort,keep honing.
-then hairs will cut easily (but still with SOME effort, they wont just fall down), scratchyness feels less, and the blade will bite a bit in the skin if angled too much.
At this point check the entire lenght of the blade for cutting performance. If it is the same across the board, the bevel is set. use your thumb pad. the blade will bite when pulled accross, and may also feel a bit coarse (this is ok, and important to note for later) move up to 4K.
Towards the end of the 4k, the coarse feeling of the blade will be replaced by a smooth feeling but with the same amount of bite, hairs will cut more easily, and will start coming off in clumps...
at this point its a matter (IMHO) of playing a bit back and forth between the 4K and 8K.
Try to notice how the blade feels on the stones. a few things to look for are, is there suction between the bevel and the stone? (good) Is the blade undercutting the water on the stone (i.e. you can see water coming up from the stone onto the blade with every stroke?) - good!,
Finally, Remember, by the time you get to the 8K, you are not "forcing" the balde to be sharp, you are coaxing it into being sharp, you are gently asking, pleading, beggin it to get sharp. The second you think you can "make" it sharp, you are using too much pressure and are working against yourself. GENTLE, that is the key.
by the time you are done on the 8k, you sould be able to hover the blade above your skin, say 1/16 of an inch, and as you do a stroke (again, with blade NOT touching skin) you will feel hair cutting, and it will almost "jump" over the blade as it is cut-- not every hair will cut, but enough to go, "yeah, it's cutting them".
All of this of course depends on your arm hair.... this is just what I have noticed. Remember to always check that it is acting consistantly across the entire edge of the blade, becasue if it is not, you need to spend more time on a particular hone.
Finally, in the end, it will probably just "click". There is no easy answer, and no amount of reading will substitute good old fashioned time at the stones and cafreful observation of how what you are doing either makes the balde sharper, or more dull.
Best of luck, and with a bit of practice and patience you will be there in no time.
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The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Cheeks For This Useful Post:
1holegrouper (06-08-2013), BanjoTom (03-23-2011), Bruce (03-23-2011), diyguy (03-23-2011), jeness (03-24-2011), LarryAndro (03-23-2011)
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03-23-2011, 06:51 PM #8
What a great post, Cheeks! Seriously. That hit the right points.
This is important too, at all stages of honing. You often hear that the only test is the shave test. I believe that phrase is used too liberally, and without qualification. Depending on how I shave, I might get a great shave with a blade that is only sharp on 1/3 of the blade edge.
You need to "check it consistently across the entire edge." And, you can't do that very well with the shave test. Besides, that test is at the end of the process. You need to check the edge all along the edge multiple times in multiple ways.
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The Following User Says Thank You to LarryAndro For This Useful Post:
Cheeks (03-23-2011)
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03-23-2011, 07:00 PM #9
Not to be argumentative, but I would say if you only shave with 1/3 of the blade, you are only shave testing that 1/3 of the blade.