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Thread: i need insight
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03-24-2011, 12:19 AM #11
That is a more advanced topic, and one I'm working on learning myself
So if you don't mind I'll leave that to the more experienced honers out there!
As a pointer though, I would check out the sub-forums that discusses thing like this.
The advanced honing and the restoration forums have been gold mines to me.Bjoernar
Um, all of them, any of them that have been in front of me over all these years....
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03-24-2011, 01:01 AM #12
The bevel is set when you have a clean meeting of the 2 sides. They do not have to be perfectly symmetrical. Not many razors are but the bevel must meet at the edge. I use visual cues prior to physical tests. If using a loupe look for an even scratch pattern all the way to the edge. Often with a warped blade one side will thin out more than the other causing a burr or microchips until both sides meet. The part that is not honed equally will show a coarser scratch pattern on one side, more obvious when you progress to finer hones eg the mirror polish will look interrupted. This is assuming you've used a progression of hones & not tried doing it all on a 30k Shapton
If you're razor was professionally honed the geometry should be ok & not require extensive work even if resetting the bevel
In general, sitting there all day on a fine stone may suit you but you possibly will end up dishing your stone enough to require frequent lapping. Maybe not likely on your PK but don't try it on a wedge There is logic to using a 1k or similar.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.