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  1. #1
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    Default Norton 220 slower than 400 wet or dry

    I have been playing with this old blade and noticed that Norton 220 is about 3-4 times slower than 400 grit wet or dry (silicon carbide) sandpaper, even when Norton is freshly lapped. Anyone else had same results?

    I wonder if it is because silicon carbide is harder?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I've been told that it is the greater concentration of abrasive in the sandpaper. Cuts very fast but a person can get in trouble in a hurry if they are not careful honing with sandpaper ..... so I hear ... I stick with the stones.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  3. #3
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    I don't really like the Norton 220 for razors. Under 1k, I prefer a Chosera or a DMT. Haven't tried the Shaptons.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
    I don't really like the Norton 220 for razors. Under 1k, I prefer a Chosera or a DMT. Haven't tried the Shaptons.
    What is your reason, if I may ask?

  5. #5
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    I agree with not using the Norton 220. I've used it for taking gouges out of tools, and what I don't like about it is that the stone breaks down so quickly that it starts to dish and develop shape irregularities that make it difficult to put a straight edge on something. If you have to really grind off a lot of metal, IMO Norton aluminum oxide sandpaper, glued to a flat surface, is the best choice. 80 grit is a very fast cutter, if you need to do serious grinding. 120 grit is a bit safer. Of course, a low grit DMT would work too, but a pack of sandpaper only costs $5. Depends on how much use you think you might get out of the DMT in the future.
    But if you just want to reestablish the bevel on a blade in decent condition, just stick to a Norton 1000 stone, as mentioned above.

  6. #6
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by time2shave View Post
    What is your reason, if I may ask?
    What Min said. For me, going to a 220 means you have a lot of work to do, and most likely on a heavy grind razor. For me, the 220 dishes in that time. Also, the grit that breaks off can scratch the razor.

    Also as Min said, you will have to decide if a DMT or sandpaper is better for you. For me, the answer is DMT - I hone a lot.

    BTW, this comparison between the Norton and the sandpaper is just another example of how factors other than the grit can play such a large role.

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  8. #7
    I shave with a spoon on a stick. Slartibartfast's Avatar
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    The lowest I ever go is my DMT 600. That is only if I am removing some bad chips or if I need to do lot of work on a wedge.

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    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    Of course I only hone my own razors but I can't see a need for me to ever go below 1K even with chips and bad bevels and all that. For years I did it all on the Norton 4K so the 1K seems like the ultimate to me. I have the 220 but I don't think I've ever used it.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

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  11. #9
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    My problem with Norton 220 is opposite of dishing. I have too much swarf build up. I presoak the stone before use and add water every 10-15 laps, but after a couple hundred laps I see a rusty looking stain appear in the middle of the stone. And it starts feeling slicker. I go through a lot of wet and dry sandpaper to keep it lapped and clean. If I was to use the sandpaper directly, instead of using it for lapping the Norton, I would probably get 30 times as much cutting done.
    It has to be something I am doing wrong.
    Last edited by time2shave; 04-08-2011 at 02:47 PM.

  12. #10
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    Sounds like it would be cost effective to get a DMT or a Chosera or something else.

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