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Thread: Razor restoration honing class project 2

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    Senior Member tumtatty's Avatar
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    Default Razor restoration honing class project 2

    I'm continuing on my quest to learn how to hone razors that I pick up 2nd hand.

    This particular razor is Joseph Rodgers that started with a slight frown. I've been working on it with it with a Norton 1k. I've been honing it for a couple hours now but it doesn't seem to be getting a decent edge, especially on the toe and heel. One side definitely has a better edge than another.

    I'm especially concerned about the point. A rolling X pattern isn't really doing the trick.

    What am I doing wrong?






  2. #2
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Several things. First, I never have, and likely never will, hone a razor without scales. I use them to help maintain the proper leverage to keep the blade flat on the hone while still enabling me to do a rolling X. Second, you said the blade had a frown, but you did not mention removing it. Is the edge straight now? Second, your tape has been honed through to the spine, so as you continued to hone you continually reduced the angle of the bevel and are likely not making contact with the edge of the blade. You need to continually replace the tape as it wears. You can reduce this wear by torquing the pressure in favor of the edge rather than the spine.
    onimaru55, Maxi and jeness like this.

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Also you will be running into interference from the stabiliser soon if not already. I think it shows hone contact now ?
    Not an easy one for early days honing.
    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

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    Senior Member tumtatty's Avatar
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    After a few hours of honing on the Norton 1k I've got an edge that will now shave hair off my arm from any part of the blade. Does it look right? Anything I should be worried about or need to fix?




    Oh..I did remove the frown (on the Norton 220) and I replaced the tape as it wore through, as per your instructions Utopian. I'm building some scales for this razor and might have them on tonight. Thanks!
    Last edited by tumtatty; 05-04-2011 at 12:46 AM.

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    Senior Member jeness's Avatar
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    Did you do a magic marker test? Maybe I see it wrong on the pics, but it seems like you have a frown in your blade. I would remove the frown before doing any fine sharpening on the blade.

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Following up on my previous comment, I would avoid honing it any further without scaling first. You need to be careful with a sharp edge while pinning it. A dull edge is much more safe to work with. In fact, you might want to tape the edge while pinning it. After it is re-scaled, then it is really easy to check for a frown. Hold the blade perpendicular to a flat hone or straight edge, then look up to a light source and look for any gap between the edge and the blade.

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    50 year str. shaver mrsell63's Avatar
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    Yes, for God's sakes, put scales on before you hone. Samattafayou, you'll cut your fingers off when you scale a shave ready blade.
    JERRY
    OOOPS! Pass the styptic please.

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    Senior Member tumtatty's Avatar
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    I got scales! This is my first set so be kind :0

    Now I don't think the blade has a frown any more. At least when I stand it on the hone I cannot see light through the middle anymore.

    I also picked up a 12k Chinese waterstone at Woodcraft yesterday. When I go to the 8k and 12k do I leave the tape off or put it back on?

    I'm going to post these pics in the workshop for some scales help as well.





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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I also picked up a 12k Chinese waterstone at Woodcraft yesterday. When I go to the 8k and 12k do I leave the tape off or put it back on?
    If you are using tape on the lower grits you may as well use it all the way through. Alternatively if you are satisfied the frown is out you could reset the bevel without tape and proceed up through the hones. One way isn't any better than the other but you should be consistent whichever method you go with. Once you get to the 8k try shave testing at that level. If it shaves well it is ready for the 12k but if not it needs more work on the 8 and maybe on the 4/8. Once it shaves well off of the 8, after stropping, it can benefit from finishing on the 12.

    For future reference if you run into a frowning razor again. The best option is to pass on it. Having done a few I avoid them like the plague. OTOH, if you decide you want to get it because you like the brand or whatever..... what I do now is hone it sort of like a pocket knife with the spine off of the low grit hone until I get the frown out. If it looks like it has more bevel on one side than the other hone the smaller beveled side until they are equal. When the frown is out go to tape on the spine and do circles .... ovals, whatever you want to call them and proceed as you would with a normal profile on the razor. Some guys recommend breadknifing but to me it is the 'nuclear option' and should be avoided. In the end it creates more work than it saves. At least IME it does.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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