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Thread: Spotty Edges

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default Spotty Edges

    I've encountered a fair percentage of the last bunch of blades where the edge response to hht is spotty. 'Good in some or most places, but always sections where the performance is poor. I don't know if this is the result of my honing, just the variation in the steel, or if this is a common occurrence with a known remedy.

    Anyone else have this happen? Is there a remedy?

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I would suspect the honing. Try 20 weight of the blade round trips on chrom-ox and see what happens.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Jimmy, Thank You.

    If I'm introducing the spots, I'd sure like to know what it is I'm doing and stop it immediately!

    Just for reference, I wondered if it was a bevel not fully set, so I tried magic marker and a stroke removed it all.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default Crox did help

    It did bring quite an improvement, Jimmy. Thank You again.

    Can you think of any way I could be introducing it? Unnoticed lifting of the spine? (sometimes happens during circles on one side) Is there any other 'usual suspects'?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Smile

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    'Certainly possible.

    (I love your signature line!)

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinklather View Post
    Can you think of any way I could be introducing it? Unnoticed lifting of the spine? (sometimes happens during circles on one side) Is there any other 'usual suspects'?
    Starting with an un-even edge...
    This for myself occurs quite often after a restore, because you have spun the blade on the buffers, which can leave a pretty rough edge present..

    The process is called many different things , but mostly "Jointing" "Killing the edge" "Downstroking" I personally use the corner of a 1k stone and lightly draw the edge across it a few times,, sometimes even a simple TNT will do the trick, some people use a glass to kill the edge... The process is to do maybe 20 circles on both sides to cut a bevel then, kill that edge, and start again from a null point so that the bevel is dead even...

    MOST razors do not need this.... and it can cause a waste of time and steel....

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Glen, Thank You!

    This did happen on a few that were restores, some of which never saw buffers that I know of - I was just honing. One to 4 return trips to bevel dressing slurry on a coti and a couple passes on an atoma 1200 w/ 45 deg. heel-leading strokes to make sure it was even and straight. After the 4th trip, it shaved like it should.

    This last one didn't seem to have an abnormality, which I checked w/ the marker. The Crox strokes did help, but knowing about an edge being straight but not uniform in thickness or such is very handy. 'Goes to show the sixgun dictum: bevel, bevel, bevel. Every time I think I've learned the dictum, I prove myself wrong.

    Thanks again, Glen!

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    The MMT doesn't tell you if the bevel is set, AFAIK. It tells you the bevel is meeting the hone all the way to the edge, but not that the bevel has been set on that edge.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default Yup. You're right, PCB

    'Could have a flat point, but the MMT would be clean. But then it wouldn't have an HHT at all.

    I went back to the jnat for some more strokes, and the HHT, improved by the crox stropping held up. 'Don't know if it added any benefit to do, but I just did a full shave w/ it, and it was quite good.

    I appreciate your help, Gents.

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