Thread: A few newnbie questions with Norton 4k/8k

I've received my Norton 4k/8k, a few eBay less expensive blades to begin my practice of honing skills, and a pack of 1000 grit 3m sandpaper at Autozone for honing the stone. I'd like to get my skills started on the less expensive blades before I dare put a future 3 figure purchase on the stone. My questions are:

1) In lapping with the 1000 grit, is contamination of the 2 sides an issue? In other words, should I use a fresh piece of sandpaper on each side or is this a non issue which can be remedied by washing with water and a pumice stone? I've read many past threads here and at least found the better grade 1000 grit paper so that contamination from the sand should not be an issue. I'm also tempted to just try the stone fresh out of the box as it seems quite flat. (I purchased a piece of marble tile to use instead of glass).

2) Since I wish to get a good bit of practice in, what is the best way of removing a shave ready edge (but not the bevel) to start pyrmading practice again. My barber suggests running the edge on a pencil. I can also imagine back honing on the 4k side might bring more metal down into the edge.

3) I'm beginning to think about more blade purchases down the road, how hard is it to hone a stainless blade? John Crowley has a few nice one's listed (INOX). In the same vain, how hard is it to hone a wedge (I've seen pictures of some beautifully restored W&B 7/8 blades that are tempting).

Thanks is advance for your sage advice.


PS - I also have the 4 sided pasted strop from Tony that I will use for final tuning.

1) I never had contamination issues because you are basically removing the embedded particles. You just rinse the stone and they're gone. The only issue is loading up the abrasive surface of the sandpaper itself.

2) Your barber is right but I prefer the shaving method

3) Norton is a fast cutter so I never had any issues with my only stainless blade. Had 50/50 results with wedges but once you get one sharp, it makes tough stubble cower in fear.

1) Just rinse the sandpaper under water to clear it off.
2) Run it edge straight down against the side of the hone. 2 or 3 light strokes and you'll need to rebuild that entirely. It should be noted that this would be a very aggressive approach.
3) Each blade is unique but the ones you are referring to can apparently be more difficult. Although I am inexperience with honing wedges or SS, I will weigh in and say, wait. Don't overload your learning curve with too many variables out of the gate. There will be enough of those coming. If you happen to see a razor that you're hungry for you can get it, but understand that it may be a little while before you're ready to tackle it.

X

I can't answer your questions about lapping because I use a shapton plate for lapping and it just makes the proceedure a real pleasure.

As far as honing stainless and wedges go the stainless just takes a little more time but nothing extreme. The wedge on the otherhand can be a real bear to hone. A blade that thick and massive requires you to remove alot of metal to sharpen it and it can be a real project to test your abilities and patience.

Wedges are very tough, for the reasons stated. Stainless can be...everytime you thing you've done too much, you realize it needs a bit more work. The Shapton lapping plate is very nice, but for a cost/benefit comparison, I truly don't think you can beat glass. Lee Valley Tools sells a float glass lapping plate and compounds that are out of this world. You can get the glass plate, lapping compound, and replacement plastic plate overlay sheets for less than $50, and if you can get your stones flatter with anything, I'd be gobsmacked (as Garythepenman would say). They guarantee .001" flatness per inch, and having used one, I'll agree. It's fast, easy, convenient, relatively inexpensive, and a real pleasure to use. I hone a lot, and that plate has been the single best investment I've made for improving both my stone maintenance and the honing itself. It keeps the stones "open" and cutting well, and perfectly dead flat. The 90 grit is a bit agressive for the 8k stone, but I used it anyway, then followed that up with 600 grit paper backed with the glass to smooth it out. They were like new stones afterward (only flatter). If you want to remove the shave ready edge, without removing the bevel, try using Tony's pasted strop, and lifting the spine as you go down the length of the leather. This should blunt it without doing major damage (like chipping the edge or cracking the blade). Or, you could buy some practice razors , so you can practice, and still have a good one to both shave with, and compare your results with.
Just my $.02
Joe