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08-21-2006, 09:17 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Las Vegas NV
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- 16
Thanked: 0Update....still in honing hell!
Thought I'd drop by and give everyone an update. This is actually an IM for randy but I figured it would be good to bounce off everyone as well. Im still working on the old razor that I took the nick's out of while lynn hones my dovo (I can't wait to get it back!). Anyways, I thought It might be overhoned (though the thumbnail test doesn't seem to indicate) so I did a little back honing (about 10 strokes on the 4k) and did kind of a modified pyramid. Now I'm back to being pretty sharp. Still about the same as before. Still won't pass the HHT. It'll cut hairs on my arm and I've noticed when its sharper it makes less of a sound. I never have enough stubble to shave test at night so I did so on my chest again. Once again, it shaves. Pretty much without iritaion too. On my face this morning, shaved, pulled and didn't cut the hair to the skin. Shaving the chin area wasn't going to happen. Here are my thoughts:
1. The shave went pretty well on my chest because the hair isn't as thick. My technique has also changed to incorporate more of a slicing (scything?) motion. This seems to help a sub par edge shave better.
2. When I lapped my stone, the 600 grit was not fine enough to leave a propper surface on the stone? Or is my stone not flat still? I would think if this is the case I could still get it to pass the HHT on some parts of the blade.
3. I'm pretty sure I'm doing most everything right proceduraly so now I need to stard the process of elimination. I'm going to go get a microscope today so I can see what the actual edge looks like. I think that should help quite a bit. Then I can experiment and see what changes take place on the edge. Excuse the grammar, this was kind of a thinking session for me as well....Thanks again for the advice
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08-22-2006, 12:00 AM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2006
- Posts
- 3,396
Thanked: 346600 grit is fine for lapping the norton 8k side, it's what I used.
Getting that last bit of sharp that gets you to "shave ready" is tricky and can take awhile to master, so don't get discouraged.
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08-24-2006, 05:52 AM #3
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
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Thanked: 2209I am trying to answer you within your quote.
Originally Posted by easyrider2382
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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08-24-2006, 04:01 PM #4
You are the King Randy....
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08-24-2006, 06:04 PM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Las Vegas NV
- Posts
- 16
Thanked: 0Well, got the 10 dollar pocket microscope (60to100k I think). The edge to me looks pretty good. I dont see any nicks. The bevel looks good on most of the razor. I say most because I think in the process of removing those big nicks on the sandpaper that the geometry of the razor might have become off a little. Mainly by the heel is where I see the nice bevel waiver a bit. It's just that "last bit" of sharpness that seems to be eluding me. When I lapped on the 600 I did make pencil marks and lapped till they were gone. I'm thinking of doing it again though just to satisfy myself that the hone is flat. I'm also really looking forward to getting my razor back from lynn so I can use it to calibrate a sharpness test that works for me. I kind of backed off the honing for now so I can have time to think about what I'm doing and seek all the advice I can get. Thanks again you guys!
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08-26-2006, 03:19 AM #6
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
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- 8,023
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Thanked: 2209When viewed under the microscope the bevel should be of a uniform color and texture along the full length and width .
If you see a darker silver/blue color along the very edge then you have two bevels. If there is a gold/brown/rust color along the very edge then that is a wire edge.
Hope this helps,Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin