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Thread: Shaving Straight off the Rock
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12-28-2011, 10:10 PM #21"The ability to reason the un-reason which has afflicted my reason saps my ability to reason, so that I complain with good reason..."
-- Don Quixote
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12-28-2011, 10:32 PM #22
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- Dec 2011
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Thanked: 21Glen, I have a romantic attachment to my coticule. Don't ask why. It may have something to do with it glistening in the moonlight, but if you suggest it's not "my" stone again I'm going to have to drive to Idaho and hit you with a sack of potatoes
All kidding aside, i see your point. It is strange how that works. I find that I can hone every big, smiling wedge i get my hands on to perfection, but my henckles and dubl duck evade me more often than not, and I might have to work on them 3 different times to get them shaving sharp (without going to town on the diamond spray).
For the time being, I want to try and believe that it's my fault and not the stone. After all, I just got an old thuringian and from the 4 blades I've finished on it, the results have been hit or miss, so in my mind, my edges are inconsistent. (1 out of those 4 felt like I was shaving with a feather - amazing!) I just don't want to rely on sprays and pastes. I've been thinking my diamond spray is kinda rough on my face lately, too.
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12-28-2011, 10:36 PM #23
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Thanked: 21I gotcha.
Have you ever tried just using the coticule side? I hear that works pretty good, too
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12-28-2011, 10:47 PM #24
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Thanked: 13245Interesting, I too have a creamy yellow select grade Coticule that originally came from Howard over at The Perfect Edge, some coti geeks say it could be a Le Gris and without a doubt it does it's best work on older Sheffield steel, (customer's) and I use it for setting the cutting edge before going to a Nakayama finisher on Kamisori (mine and customer's)
It yields a fantastic haze finish, that when used correctly gives a very silky edge
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I would never consider it tops on other steels
PS: Please bring those big huge Idaho "Baker" potatoes if you come, as they don't sell them up here, they are for export
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12-28-2011, 10:56 PM #25
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12-28-2011, 11:20 PM #26
It sounds to me like a problem with the Finishing step. I think you should press on with 1K concerns, 4K, and all that. When you get done I would address the finishing issue. I think once you take the word "slurry" out of your descriptions and ensure you're not using pressure, stones might work well.
Then again, if you just like to use the word "slurry" a lot and know better than to actually use slurry to try and finish an edge -- it's all good.
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12-29-2011, 04:36 PM #27
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- Dec 2011
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Thanked: 21AFDavis11, my "slurry" progression is as follows:
1K - slurry to set the bevel if needed, then no slurry until cuts arm hair
4K- 20 or so strokes with medium slurry, same with light, same or more with no slurry, until cuts arm hair easier than the 1K edge
Coticule - off the 4k norton, use moderate slurry, then dilute gradually every 15-20 passes until final 30-50 passes are on water only. If edge still seems like it needs work, water only passes are used from here until "finished." Then strop, typically 4 complete passes on diamond .5 micron linen strop, and 50 complete (both ways) passes on leather. If shave is no good, another 50 complete passes. If still no good, It's back to light slurry on coticule for 10-15 passes, then water only passes until complete. Repeat if necessary.
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12-29-2011, 04:38 PM #28
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Thanked: 21
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12-29-2011, 09:53 PM #29
Your slurry tactics look pretty good to me. Just remember, slurry is messy like bad winter weather. Water only is clean and SHARP! You might be messing up the edge a tad by returning to the slurry too quickly. A clean 30k stone will EVENTUALLY produce a great edge, but not as fast as you might want.
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12-29-2011, 11:06 PM #30
You should be able to get your razors shave-ready with a coticule: generations of barbers did so. You need to strop after honing, leather only should do.
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.