Thread: Ebay Blades

I've seen a number of people say they "go heavy" as a matter of routine on ebay blades in order to get to sound metal on the edge. Does this mean taping the spine and starting with a 1K grit stone, or doing a lot of circles on a 4K stone? If starting with a 1K stone would you do circles or do the standard X pattern?

Thanks,
Dave

Originally Posted by DMS

I've seen a number of people say they "go heavy" as a matter of routine on ebay blades in order to get to sound metal on the edge. Does this mean taping the spine and starting with a 1K grit stone, or doing a lot of circles on a 4K stone? If starting with a 1K stone would you do circles or do the standard X pattern?

Thanks,
Dave

Yes! No, I don't mean to be my typical smart-a$$ self, but either would work. I typically tape the spine and head to my 1K (sometimes even my 220 ). Circles or x-pattern works, I tend to do the X. Try a few approaches; stick with what works for you.

YMMV,
Ed

What prof said. I usually do 40 laps or so on the 4k side of the norton, then head up like normal. Occasionally I've had an edge fail on one of the higher grits, if that happens it's back down to the 4k for another 10 firm laps then try it again.

My theory is that the thin edge has gradually absorbed oxygen from both sides of the blade over the decades and corroded internally, it's not visible rust but the metal there isn't really steel anymore.

I do lots of circular honing with 1k wet/dry sandpaper over the Norton and then about 30 strokes of x and then go to the 4k. I tape the spine ofcourse.

Ya! What they said! The main point is that the edge has oxidised and the steel is weak thus it will not keep a decent edge. It has to be worn off. The 1000 grit is faster but is also very harsh on the edge. Personally I prefer the 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper over the 1000 grit hone. It simply is faster.
But... I always start with the 4000 grit hone first. If after 100 laps on the 4000 the edge is still not where I want it to be then I go back to the 1000 grit sandpaper. I also use a 30X microscope to check my progress. If you are going to be restoring a number of old razors then you find that a microscope is very useful. The one thing you can be certain of is that every razor will be different.

Hope this helps,

That's why electrical tape is also a close friend. I take it off once the blade becomes close to shave ready and don't put it on for minor touchups.

I have one where the steel still looks a little grayish colored and sort of crystalline under magnification, seems to chip off at the very edge pretty easily unless I hone it under super light pressure at a 30 degree angle.

Does this sound like oxidized metal?

Most likely. Give it some good 1k work and try honing again.

You guys must not be doing it right. Haven't you seen the other helpful eBay guide written by an ole cowpoke for making a razor sharp?

http://tinyurl.com/vleak

Randy... he prolly thinks you're a sissy for using a microscope.

Originally Posted by urleebird

You guys must not be doing it right. Haven't you seen the other helpful eBay guide written by an ole cowpoke for making a razor sharp?

http://tinyurl.com/vleak

Randy... he prolly thinks you're a sissy for using a microscope.

Old Josey can shave with a hunt'in knife, honed on a wet creekbed stone until the blade sings - no sissy stuff for him.