New AOS Razor

**Jp1munoz** · 01-06-2012, 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

+1. Evaluate the edge with a loupe (or microscope) before starting to hone it.

If you don't have either tool, start with 10 or 20 light laps on your finest stone, and test the result. If it's no good, drop to the next-finest stone (or use more pressure). And so on.

If you had a pasted strop, I'd suggest starting with that.

You have a problem to deal with:

. . . You don't have _proven_ honing skills.

So do as little damage as possible -- which means using the finest stone that you have.

Charles

excellent advice. I'm going to try 20 laps on 12k tonight, hopefully thats where i can stop. +1 on honing skills. i failed on a wedge twice. i think the reason was i used tape to set bevel because i couldnt get the thing to cut hair off the 1k. Once i got an even bevel and shaved hair i took the tape off and went to polishing. from what i have read that means i polished the top of the bevel not the edge. Correct?

**Jp1munoz** · 01-06-2012, 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by gugi

Yeah, the 4 out of 4 dovos with a factory edge I've honed in the last several months all needed bevel work. Shavingwise they were what I consider barely shaving, though I'm sure many new people simply struggle through with that and end up either suffering, giving up, or finding a way to get a proper edge. But that's a pretty small sample, somebody like Lynn who hones a ton of them all the time would know best what state they typically come in, though there will always be variations.

The problem with doing these things over the internet is that it's almost impossible to evaluate the edge of somebody's razor. Best course of action always is to find somebody local who's good at it and who's willing to help.

a daunting task from what i have found.

**zib** · 01-06-2012, 03:44 PM

You do need to evaluate the edge first. I recently purchased some Factory Dovo's. The one I opened was surprisingly ok. All it needed was a go on my Escher. That's it. No bevel work. I always try to do the least amount of work possible to spare wear, so if the bevel is ok, and it's amost there, I'll just grab a finisher, then maybe 10 lapps on .50 Diamond spray on felt, and I'm good to go. Of course, since these blades are done by hand at Solingen, there are differences from blade to blade, Evaluation is a must, YMMV. Here's a vid from youtube on how Dovo's are made...Making DOVO Straight Razors - YouTube

**Jp1munoz** · 01-06-2012, 04:20 PM

Originally Posted by zib

You do need to evaluate the edge first. I recently purchased some Factory Dovo's. The one I opened was surprisingly ok. All it needed was a go on my Escher. That's it. No bevel work. I always try to do the least amount of work possible to spare wear, so if the bevel is ok, and it's amost there, I'll just grab a finisher, then maybe 10 lapps on .50 Diamond spray on felt, and I'm good to go. Of course, since these blades are done by hand at Solingen, there are differences from blade to blade, Evaluation is a must, YMMV. Here's a vid from youtube on how Dovo's are made...Making DOVO Straight Razors - YouTube

**AxelH** · 01-06-2012, 06:59 PM

Originally Posted by Jp1munoz

a 12k is no escher. will it do the job? also. one of the dovos i got is a stainless steel blade. I'm i to do double laps for it? or go one step further 8k?

We don't know. Too bad you can't see because you refuse to use magnification. You'll have to send it out to someone else, someone who cheats with optics!

BTW, what do you use to keep your hones flat?

**Jp1munoz** · 01-06-2012, 07:20 PM

Originally Posted by AxelH

We don't know. Too bad you can't see because you refuse to use magnification. You'll have to send it out to someone else, someone who cheats with optics!

BTW, what do you use to keep your hones flat?

i meant not to offend anyone. It is my opinion. I will more than likely have to go to a microscope, because like i have mentioned i failed twice. i'm clearly too novice to know better so please..... don't take my words to seriously.

i have a dmt, which has some imperfection somewhere because it made visible scratches on my stones. I now lap them with wet/dry 3m sand paper on my counter top. works very well for me, and i will continue it.

The dmt made the scratches on the first shot so it was not me.

again. i meant no harm. i'm stupid in the subject. i didn't to offend or be snub. please keep it constructive.

thanks.

**Theseus** · 01-06-2012, 07:45 PM

New DMT's usually need broken in before using it to lap stones. Take a piece of metal and give it a good once(or twice) over to knock down the bits of diamond sticking out on the hone.

**AxelH** · 01-06-2012, 08:10 PM

Don't worry about it, jp1munoz. And it's very constructive! Theseus has already come to the rescue. Something about that frog avatar... I'm not quite conscious of why, but for some reason I'm compelled to do what he says...

Is it a DMT coarse (325) grit?

**Jp1munoz** · 01-06-2012, 09:21 PM

Originally Posted by Theseus

New DMT's usually need broken in before using it to lap stones. Take a piece of metal and give it a good once(or twice) over to knock down the bits of diamond sticking out on the hone.

i didnt think or try that. from what i read they seemed so frail, and as if the life was very short. Figured just sand paper was cheap enough, and easy enough to access. I'm happy with it still.

**cpcohen1945** · 01-07-2012, 05:44 AM

at the moment i do not own an optical device. I do not like buying cheap items because i find they cost more (aggravation/money) in the end than what i saved. I have seen recommendations for radio shack items, and other inexpensive items so that i can see what is going on with my edge.

As a "medium-cost" compromise:

. . . Find a jeweler's supply store, and get a "10x triplet diamond loupe".

Like these:

Loupes | Magnifiers | Watch Maker’s Loupes | Head Magnifiers

They're pretty well free of color fringing, and the field is pretty flat. The Bausch & Lomb 10x is plenty good enough, and probably so is the NJS-branded loupe. [My own loupe is unbranded, bought from a local guy who teaches gemology.]

It's not as good as a microscope, but you get a good sense of what the edge is like. If there's enough trouble to require a bevel reset, you'll see it.

Charles

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