The unevenness may well promote edge fragility. Sometimes you need to work a specific area, ie the high spots,a little more than the rest. I think this what Glen calls "pushing" the edge but don't quote me. That's just my interpretation.
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I think that the jaggedness is so large that no amount of drawing against glass will remove it, but i will check once i get home. IIRC the glass does affect the very edge of the edge but the chips are deeper than that. I think I might try to do a video shortly as there is very little chance to get some in-person guidance where I am living at.
IIRC you said you used a DMT as well ? This can tear up the edge a bit too. Why not send the razor out to someone with some experience . They could assess your honing & the razor. No shame in accepting temporary limitations but as I said before if you persevere & succeed you will have learned a lot.
Well I had not taken the dovo down to the dmt 600 before, this morning i did. Actually the edge seemed rather smooth under the scope. The scratch marks are much smaller than the chips and other irregularities. If I dont get this right soon, I will send it to Lynn or Blix as they have offered to help me.
And you are right, even though I havent been successful yet, I have learned a *ton* of things about sharpening razors already. I guess everybody has to pay the price in the beginning in order to learn these things.
Ok I made a video of the honing. See if those help you to help me :)
Part 1.
TwistedDovoHoning_part1.AVI - YouTube
Part 2.
TwistedDovoHoning_part2.AVI - YouTube
I think you may have it back to front ?
The side that has the centre high spot should be rocked upward starting with the toe slightly raised to make contact at the heel .
The side where the centre is not flat on the stone should be rocked downward... or is that what you are doing ?
Personally I find these actions easier with one hand but I know not everybody does that.
Another thing is that the thumbnail test is not so different to to using the glass on the edge. A little more honing after the TNT is always needed before attempting to cut hair.
I managed to put an edge on the dovo. Jay! BUT, it is still not I want. The 6k king keeps killing me and once the naniwa ss 3k/8k compo arrives I will try a pyramid to see if that helps.
I hate those warped blades! If the warp is bad, then honing on a DMT for a bit helps reduce the high spots on the spine and even it out a bit. I then usually add a layer of tape and let that wear down on the high spots during bevel setting, adding a second layer of tape to even things up a bit more and 'lift' the spine a bit so that the bevel sits at a slightly more acute angle on the hone, which sometimes helps. If the warp isn't too bad, just one layer of tape, changed often, may do the trick. If all else fails you may need to resort to narrower hones.
I hope your counter top is a bit irregular, by the way! In those last photos the bevel looks a bit undulating in places, but that could be the light or the counter top.
With regards to the King 1k/6k, the 1k is very fast (I prefer it to the Norton 1k, even if the King needs more frequent lapping) and the 6k side is more like a 5k. Even so, the jump from 1k to 5k is a bit much for me - a 2k or 3k in between suits me better.
I'm not sure if I read your post correctly, but are you finishing with 6k King and attempting to shave? I suppose that can be done, but even an 8k (although in the hands of a very competent user an 8k can give a very good shaving edge) isn't enough for most people, I have found - 10k seems to be a good starting point for a finishing stone, but that's only my opinion!
Regards,
Neil