Is the 4/8 and a strop all I need.

Hey fellas,
I took Randy's pyramid and saw some improvement, especially in my Morely. My Dovo Inox is still totally unusable.....Probably just need more patience with the stainless steel. My Morley will shave, but pulls and just sticks on the against the grain passes.
I really want to learn this valuable skill, but at this point I'm pretty much out of time I think, since I will be overseas for 6 months (Navy sending me away). I dunno, I may not even take my straights and just go back to the fusion (collective ghasp from the audience, some hisses, lol) while I am away. In the mean time I think I'll be emailing Joe Chandler for some honing services, then when I get back stateside (I don't know if you can really call Hawaii "stateside") I'll buy some ebay cheapos to learn on without taking any more valuable metal off of my good blades.

Thanks for your help guys.

Tape the spine of the DOVO inox and do some vigorous honing on the 4k to establish a bevel. Use a bit more pressure than customary and don't use too much water as you want to develop a slurry. Once the bevel is established, you can switch to the pyramid. You could have that baby shaving in a single day.

I'm sure that bevel is already there so you almost certainly DON"T need to tape the spine. You probably just need to figure out the "touch".

1. Start with more pressure at the beginning of the pyramid and taper of to ultra light toward the end.
2. I use less pressure on the 8k side than I do on the 4k for best results.
3. Even right along the whole edge.
4. Patience.

X

Quote:

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

A 4/8 blade can be tough to hone, only a 3/8 is harder. Keeping the pressure balance even is the difficulty.
What is the name on your razor? Let us know.
If it is a Landers, Fray and Clark then that is one hard tempered steel razor!

You have been working on the razor for several weeks? Ok, we have done and heard that before. You most likely are now over honed. Overhoned means the edge is to thin. Thus it is weak. When an edge is weak it bends, curls or chips. We refer to this as a wire edge. Other professions call it a burr.
So...
1. Feel the edge of your blade with the pad of your thumb, both sides of the blade. Notice if it feels different at any spot. Remember that spot and how it feels in general.

2. Now perform the thumbnail test. You will probably feel an uneven "draw". remeber any place where the edge catches or skips.

3. Perform 10 back honing strokes on the 4000 grit Norton. This should wear off any wire edge. Then 5 normal strokes. Use 1-2 lbs of pressure.

4. Now do the thumb and thumbnail test again. The edge should feel more even with no catching. If it does not feel even then perform 5 more back honing strokes and 5 normal honing strokes.

5. Perform the two thumb tests again.

6. Now perform a sequence of the following pyramid

4000 hone/8000 hone
5/5 use 1-2 lbs of pressure
4/5 "" ""
3/5 "" ""
3/5 Light pressure
1/5 "
1/5 "
1/5 "

Then strop and shave test. Repeat if necessary starting at the 3/5 level.

Then let us know how it is going.
Contact me on Skype at any time
Send me a PM for my phone # if you want to call

Hope this helps,:)

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Hi Randy....why always vary in the strokes please? A stroke on the 4000, strokes on the 8000 then again on the 4000 and again on the 8000 ....i don't understand. Can it not strokes on the 4000 and than on the 8000 after then the strop and that's all before you shaving? And what if you only a Belgium coticulestone? How many laps need the razor please?
Thx for the help!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jan

Hi Randy....why always vary in the strokes please? A stroke on the 4000, strokes on the 8000 then again on the 4000 and again on the 8000 ....i don't understand. Can it not strokes on the 4000 and than on the 8000 after then the strop and that's all before you shaving? And what if you only a Belgium coticulestone? How many laps need the razor please?
Thx for the help!!

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Randy i mean how many laps need the razor on the Belgium stone please??

I'll sub in for Randy:
As many as it takes to get it shave ready. It depends on what you started with, how much steel there is to remove and how hard it is.

The number of strokes varies because what we are doing is gradually getting closer to a shaving edge. After each set of strokes i.e. 3/5 test with the thumb test to see if the edge is sharp enough. But since you do not have the "feel" for what is sharp enough yet then what you are doing is learning what rate of change is occuring while you are honing. There is nothing that says you have to do all of the sets of laps. You can stop at any time and perform a test shave.

Since there were many kinds of steel used in straight razors and many different heat treatments used we cannot give a precise recommendation of what it will take to obtain a shavung sharp edge.

For the time being just use the Norton 4/8 hone. Do not use the Belgian. This way you will learn what the Norton can do.

However, if all you have to work with is the Belgian and it is a two grit hone then double the number of laps in each set. The Belgian does a fine job but it does cut slowly. Also be sure to use a slurry with both sides of the Belgian.

Let us know how it goes,:)

Where can i buy a Norton stone please? Is he possible buying in Europe??

Thx

Some sellers like classicshaving.com do ship but you'll pay for it through your nose. Wait until you hear from some Euro-members as they may know a cheaper way to get your hands on one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jan

Where can i buy a Norton stone please? Is he possible buying in Europe??

Thx

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Jan, if all you have is a Belgian two grit hone then that will be all you need. It will be slower than the Norton but the edge will be more comfortable and maybe sharper. Again, be sure to use a slurry. If you do not understand the word "slurry" then contact me.

Hope this helps.