Microscope picture 10X power of a micro chip on a used rasor.

[swicth59]

Hello:
This is a follow up to my initial tread on 1 feb. 2012 when I requested help dealing with non visible micro chips on a straight razor edge. I have carefully read all the posts and watch some of the suggestive videos. So, I started working on a used razor Benz (Solinger Blade) that I friend of my found it in an antique store in Indiana. I have worked on the edge using the 4K wet stone, but when I look under the microscope at 10X power I can see a substantial chip (invisible to my eyes). I have taken a photo the blade section in questions using a microscope with a camera and I am including it this message. The balde steel appears black and you could probably can tell the area with the long chip. Should I continue honing the blade with the 4K and be more patient or go to another stone, etc? I am hoping to learn more about inserting files so the quality could improve. Once again I look forward to your helpful advice.
Sincerely,

Swicth 59

[swicth59]

I am in the process of learning how to send attachments. So I am hoping to get the indulgence of your patience. Here a picture of my newly acquire used Benz Solinger razor blade segment which contains a chip (invisible to the naked eye). I started working on the micro chips using 4K wet stone with some of the advised from distinguish members of this forum. Any suggestions how to get rid of this wide chip? Back to 1K? or Stay with 4K, or bail out while you still hook to the line in a C-130........

Thanks for considering my request and I hope I inserted this attachment right.

Swicth

[onimaru55]

Attachment works fine.
I'd be down to 1k on that, from a time perspective. Maybe a layer of tape on the spine is a good idea at this stage too.

[swicth59]

Hey, thanks for letting my know about the attachment and the advise.

[onimaru55]

No probs. You may get a few votes for the 4k too

[swicth59]

I will keep am eye for it. How is the summer so far. It is a little cold in Indiana.

[mjhammer]

I hope you have already gotten a satisfactory answer, but here's my take for what it is worth...

You should gently breadknife this razor on a low grit plate of W/D Sandpaper. I use a DMT 325 myself.

If you gently rub the edge on the plate it will gradually take that down to the good steel. Don't go past the lowest point or you will be wasting good steel. Then you can hone it as usual on your hones.

Hope this helps!

M

[ace]

Breadknifing always takes you past good steel. When you are finished breadknifing, you are at good steel, and your additional honing removes steel that should not be removed. I've yet to read a good argument for removing more steel than must be removed. Try 4K, and if you are not making progress, go down to 1K. Hone until the chip is gone and finish from there. Breadknifing is never justified unless you are making a breadknife.

[Zephyr]

To get past that chip I would take it to the 1K, working a little pressure, if you don't have a 1K you can rasie some slurry on the 4K to speed it up a bit.

Breadknifing will in most cases mean more work and time than if you just hone it out.

[mjhammer]

In my own defense, I was taught by gssixgun breadknifing to remove a chip, hence my reply. I have learned something here fellows, thank you!! I have a Shapleigh that exibits these exact symptoms and I have been wondering what to do, the micro chips are right at the toe, and just appear to be a ragged spot where the slight smile ends. I have also been told about over honing, so what happens to the rest of the blade when you keep taking it to a 1 or 4k to try and hone them out? Will you end up with a wire edge? or do you dull it before you start out again?

Thanks all!!

Mike