Thread: Warped/Twisted/Otherwise not totally straight edge

I'm not sure how to describe this issue, because it appears as though the razor I'm learning to hone with is sort of warped after all. The blade itself is straight length-wise, but it's when I lay it down that it's not making good contact. I tried to search the forums for something about this but the posts I found dealt with truly warped blades.

For instance: if I hone on one side of the razor, the edge makes good contact and gets a decent (for a beginner) bevel...or at least something resembling a bevel. When I flip the razor, it is warped/curved/curled so that the edge itself is raised off the hone just enough to cause problems. It's very slight but if I hold the razor to a straight edge I can see the length of the blade veer slightly sideways. Also the edge itself wasn't perfectly even when I started...the rust seems to have made it a little wavy (as in little pockets of frowns and smiles) which has been lessening as I hone. Add to it a healthy dose of inexperience and, well, you know what I've ended up with.

How could I deal with this? Is it something that can be "honed out?" Do I need to work with rolling strokes? Is it a lost cause? I'm fine with just honing it until it works....I do believe that repetition is the mother of memory so I'm looking at this as a good learning experience.

And thanks for putting up with incessant honing inquiries.

I'd say the best bet is some sort of rolling x stroke. Try and get every part of the blade to make contact with the cm or so right at the edge of your hone (make sure the edges of the hone are rounded or chamfered). if you just vary the pressure at that point and watch how the water or slurry reacts in front of the blade edge you can pick up a consistent stroke. That said, it will take a little time and practice, but if you're patient I'm sure you'll be able to figure it out.

I had the same issue with a vintage schulze (well, not the rust anyways). I was able to get a decent edge, but not fantastic. However, that was one of the first blades I honed, and I'm sure with the added experience I could do better now.

The important thing here is to take it slow. Good luck!

Ok I'll give it a try. The water displacement under normal honing didn't seem weird, but the only thing I have to compare it to is videos in the forums.

Try rolling strokes and use the magic marker method on the edge..that way you can see you're making proper contact

Originally Posted by U2Bono269

I'm not sure how to describe this issue,
....snip...
For instance: if I hone on one side of the razor, the edge makes good contact
....snip....
How could I deal with this? Is it something that can be "honed out?"
....snip...
And thanks for putting up with incessant honing inquiries.

This sort of thing will sort itself out... so yes this will hone out.
Note well: I have found that if I set out to hone this type of problem
away at one go I make it worse.

Some problems are true warping and other
are the result of previous hones and users.
The best tool is the magic marker test. If you
can find a hone stroke that smoothly wipes the
marker ink from the edge you are good to go.

I do mark both the edge and the spine.

I like to think that a flat hone and some "ideal" hone strokes
will pull a razor back over time. While it is coming back X strokes,
swoops and other strokes will keep it shaving.

In some cases I have resorted to a DMT and/or film on
glass because they are so flat and wide.

Also a good trick is tape. If the spine
is awful the tape will wear off the nasty lumps
quick enough that the edge will see a flat
hone more than not.

Again, I have found that if I set out to hone this type of problem
at one go I make it worse. I start with "ideal" hone strokes
then adjust and finish with strokes that wipe the ink off.

That reminds me... I have a 7/8 WB that needs a visit.
I once thought it a potato chip... but it was mostly a previous
owner with an aggressive narrow hone.

Slow and steady use a marker.