Thread: Popping hair at 1k

Not sure if this is posted somewhere or not, but thought I'd ask anyway. I've been honing a razor and actually shaved with it a few times now, but it wasn't the smoothest and been working on it. I was reading some posts about popping hair off of 1k and not exactly sure what that means. Do you rest the spine on the skin with the edge off of the skin or is it the spine and edge are off the skin and parallel to the skin or razor at a 30 degree angle off the skin. I just wondering if I have to go back and work on the bevel more.

I use a 30 degree angle, and I'm just looking for it to cut hair.
I really don't like the term "popping" as it means different things to different people.

I might go back to the 1k just worried about creating microchipping. I have ocd when it comes to alot of things. Just gotta have it perfect lol

Use pressure 'til it cuts hair then do a few more laps with no pressure, then move on.
Don't worry about micro-chipping. As long as your hone is clean and you don't use pressure after the bevel set and the steel is good quality it won't be a problem.

Thanks I'll try that. The razor that I am honing is a Genco Old Dutch 6/8 that I restored was wondering if maybe I sanded alittle to much on the blade. I posted pics of it in the gallery if your wondering. Don't think you'd be able to see if I sanded to much from the pics though.

From your restore thread:
"I made the mistake of getting to big headed when I was done and dropped it and took a big chip out of the edge. It took some work to fix it, but turned out ok."

Depending on how you "fixed" it you might have a bit more 1k work to do, honing is one thing, restoration is a whole over ball game..

If you could give us an idea of how yo got the chip out and how much metal you removed it would help us help you..

g

I honed the chip out on the 1k and had to be between 1/32 and 1/16 that I had to take off that is why I was wondering if maybe the bevel wasn't up to par after that and as for strokes I used alot of circles till its was almost gone then I went with X strokes.

I always use the TNT for gaging readiness at the 1k level. When the resistance is strong and even from point to heel. You can feel the smoothness, or lack thereof, through the thumbnail too. When it is a good TNT I do another dozen X strokes on the 1K and then I might try shaving arm or leg hair. I don't try "popping" arm hair (razor edge not touching skin) until the 4K level. Just my thing, not saying that is the way to do it. Doing the circles, back and forth strokes, followed by the X strokes is the way I would get a chip out too.

If I am just starting out on 1k, then I like to dull the edge first by dragging it over the edge of a stone or rim of a glass with no pressure. The stone dulls it more effectively. While honing I use several tests but I really like the TNT, and looking through a loupe to see if I did the whole bevel. When I'm done setting a bevel, the blade can easily shave a section of my leg or arm completly bare in one easy stroke, passes the TNT flawlessly, has an even bevel from toe to heel, and can cut a hanging hair.

I have a lot less honing experience than some of the previous posters, so take with a grain of salt.

Michael

Originally Posted by mjsorkin

If I am just starting out on 1k, then I like to dull the edge first by dragging it over the edge of a stone or rim of a glass with no pressure. The stone dulls it more effectively.

The value of this technique is in removing a burr if you have created one. There is no point in deliberately trying to dull a razor before honing it. It is merely a way of folding ragged metal away from the edge so it is more accessible to the hone. Corking, & the TNT can be used as gentler variants of the same thing but a glass or stone can be appropriate also..