Thread: Having issues keeping Boker Edelweiss sharp

Im no pro lol but it does also sound to me like it could be a stropping issue.

Back Honing at that level is not a good idea...

Even at the 30k Shapton level I use a 3-2-1 which is 3 edge leading 2 backhoning and 1 edge leading sometimes even a 3-2-2 (thanks Maxi)

But at the lower level grits backhoning creates a rough edge, and a frown, the Vorhaven paper explains why much better than I do, but simply put, you are pulling metal out from the edge... This is what we tried to explain to that Knife guy Carter but he wouldn't listen

Go back to the JaNorton thread and read through some of the finishing tricks we were using on the 8k Norton and see if some of those don't pull the Boker into line..

I also think you are running the edge pretty hard with a heavy progression, I would back it down on the 8k and the linen but we all have different pressures and strokes so I could be wrong there...

BTW my second Boker was an Edlewiess, and all I used back then was the Norton 4/8 and I remember thinking that little beauty was Silk on a Stick

PS: I also find that tilting the strop just a bit like you just found, either up or down seems to lessen the pressure and gets me a better feel on the face..

Basically stropping at either a slight up angle or a slight down angle

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Back Honing at that level is not a good idea...

Even at the 30k Shapton level I use a 3-2-1 which is 3 edge leading 2 backhoning and 1 edge leading sometimes even a 3-2-2 (thanks Maxi)

But at the lower level grits backhoning creates a rough edge, and a frown, the Vorhaven paper explains why much better than I do, but simply put, you are pulling metal out from the edge... This is what we tried to explain to that Knife guy Carter but he wouldn't listen

Go back to the JaNorton thread and read through some of the finishing tricks we were using on the 8k Norton and see if some of those don't pull the Boker into line..

I also think you are running the edge pretty hard with a heavy progression, I would back it down on the 8k and the linen but we all have different pressures and strokes so I could be wrong there...

BTW my second Boker was an Edlewiess, and all I used back then was the Norton 4/8 and I remember thinking that little beauty was Silk on a Stick

PS: I also find that tilting the strop just a bit like you just found, either up or down seems to lessen the pressure and gets me a better feel on the face..

Basically stropping at either a slight up angle or a slight down angle

well it's a good thing I backhoned only twice...hopefully I didn't do any real damage. I'll bring it down to 20 laps on the 8k, clear water, and maybe 50 strokes on canvas and see where I go.

Backhoning is no sin, but theoretically it is an slightly inferior technique especially with lower grits. Gssixgun mentioned the paper of John D. Verhoeven, emeritus professor at Iowa state university (2004) that can be found here

But I feel I must say that the difference is highly theoretical, because if you suck at forward honing, whereas your hand is steady when backwardshoning,
the latter will give you better results. Try to do what feels best for you and master this technique.
On the original topic I suggest a new bevel to be set and hone the puppy from scratch. Otherwise there may be too many things that could cause the problems you described, to find out right now.

But if a 8k stone is all you got, there will be no harm in playing around with the 8k a little more.
Maybe you can fix the problem with more, consistent strokes. Maybe even raise a slurry and dilute to water only

well I have a 4/8 combo, so I could reset the bevel but I haven't quite mastered the technique. If I can't make it work, I have a free SRD honing that came with the razor that I'll use instead.

My common sense tells me that it doesn't need it. The razor does cut hair without pulling, it's just rough and leaves my neck irritated. It also doesn't have the smooth glide it did when I first took it to the 8k...or when I got it from SRD.

Keep in mind though that my common sense isn't founded in the straight razor world, so grain-of-salt and all that...

Check your blade for warping. I have a Boker which gave me very similar problems for some time until it dawned on me that the blade was warped (the evidence was there all along). Now that I've adjusted my honing technique for that blade, I get fantastic results.

Gentlemen, dear friends,
Aren't we about to lose the simple right path? Recently I spent a few days in a Italian village so small it will never reach a map. Barber. Busy shaving a client. I had a three day beard. Went for a good shave. The artisan was equipped with all the Bokers of the world. After this client I was seated. 30 laps. No further hanky panky. Result: smooth as a baby butt for the next two days.
Consider, it is not complicated at all. I only hone a new object. My current razors are just stropped. And that will do.

Originally Posted by Lesslemming

Backhoning is no sin, but theoretically it is an slightly inferior technique especially with lower grits. Gssixgun mentioned the paper of John D. Verhoeven, emeritus professor at Iowa state university (2004) that can be found here

But I feel I must say that the difference is highly theoretical, because if you suck at forward honing, whereas your hand is steady when backwardshoning,
the latter will give you better results. Try to do what feels best for you and master this technique.

And I feel I must say I disagree with the "If it feels good do it theory",, sorry but Backhoning at the lower grits ie: 8k as a finsh stroke is just not a good idea,,
Backhoning period is much more likely to create a frown , especially if as you say they suck at honing anyway... You might want to Read his post again...