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04-25-2012, 03:11 AM #1
blunting it on glass is no problem. I do it all the time on my practice razors to rebuild the edge with a different combination of stones or protocols.One downstroke on glass doesn't take that long to rectify at all. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is using the BBW side of the hone with slurry. It brings the edge up to arm hair shaving very quickly and doesn't dull the blade as the coticule does.
After I dull it on glass(especially with the softer sheffields) I use the BBW side until it shaves arm hair and THEN go to the coti side with light slurry then to water. works very well.
One must look at strokes technique as well. if the edge isn't touching the stone throughout the whole stroke it doesn't matter what the stone is)
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04-25-2012, 06:16 PM #2
Bart has been promoting this blunting for several years now. The original idea was that beginners usually have a hard time establishing a good bevel, so blunting the edge removes some of the false positives, as then they are supposed to stay with thick slurry/low grit until the razor can shave arm hair, or some basic test like this.
Obviously there are other ways to address the exact same issue if it is an issue to start with, which do not involve blunting the razor.
Of course, like everything else when this becomes a religious point instead of a tool to solve a particular problem there are all kinds of problems.
Honing a razor in decent condition is fairly straightforward job when you know what you're doing. But when you have no reference whatsoever starting with a method that has huge unknowables that you need to figure out for your specific case, is not the best approach. That's why most people here recommend beginners start with known synthetic hones and eliminate the hone performance unknowns. Despite what all the coticule fanboys keep saying the variations among coticules are huge. I have used 30 or so coticules and that's enough to make the conclusion. Same thing with the BBW hone.
First, OP's hone doesn't have BBW side, it has a slate. Secondly the way your BBW performs isn't the way most of my BBW have been performing, so it's pretty foolish to presume the transferability that you do.
A fast hone in the 1000 grit range rectifies that pretty quickly, as long as the strokes are consistent. So yes, the hone does matter.
The only thing I could suggest to the OP is to find somebody local to him and get help in person. Or start doing something different, i.e. look at the edge with magnification, use sharpie if necessary to see what the hone is doing exactly. Then proceed based on what you learn.
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04-25-2012, 06:46 PM #3
OK now i understand the blunting (thanks Gugi), but i will not be making it a practice
yes i know all the coticules, bbw, Escher's thuringens (real ones) and other natural stones i have tried or own behave differently which is why i mainly just use one of type so i have a better understanding of how the razor will respond on it... and mainly they are the stones i like to shave off of.
i know the OP does not have other tools to experiment with and it can be daunting but in time and after watching some of the honing videos closely he should be OK ... but his best bet is to have it honed for him and then learn on an ugly blade....
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04-25-2012, 07:31 PM #4
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04-25-2012, 08:37 PM #5
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Thanked: 1587Why do you want to hone your coticule? Isn't it sharp enough?
James.