Thread: sharpening question. Please help

]I] My Razor has a bevel along the edge of the razor. Some parts seem slightly wider than others and it's shiny from end to end and the entire width. [/I]

This comes from uneven honing, most likely an uneven honing surface, I.E. a hone that needs to be lapped.
1) Draw a 5x3 line grid on both hone surfaces
2) Place a piece of 1000-grit wet-dry sandpaper on a wet smooth glass/marble/ceramic 1x1' plate (about $6 @ Home Depot), pour some water over it.
3) Do figure-8s until the lines disappear.

What is Cirdular honing?
1) Make sure both the edge and the spine are touching the honing surface.
2) Move the blade in circles... Same number on both sides of the blade.

I use the X pattern on the strop because it isn't wide enough for the whole razor, but the stone is so I just go straight across. What would the benefit be of going any way but straight across?

1) It helps keep you focused on honing with even pressure over every part of the blade.
2) If the honing surface is a bit uneven, all parts of the blade still get the same amount of exposure to the hone.

I am hesitant to start out by lapping my stone, using courser grits, or advanced honing techniques because I am a beginner and don't feel comfortable with that sor t of stuff yet.

The techniques that I outlined will make your honing job easier and results quicker to come. It's your choice whether you'd like to have an advantage or not.

The Bevel was like that when I got the razor. Does that mean it's defective? Does the bevel have to be totally even before the razor will be sharp?

I'm assuming that the circular honing will be to even out the bevel. Can I do this on the waterstone? If I have to use 1000 grit then can I use a stone or does it have to be sandpaper?



Thanks

-------Michael

Whoever tried to hone that blade did a terrible job of it. In some cases it CAN shave with an uneven bevel, but you're aiming for 2 scenarios:
1) Completely even -- straight edge
or
2) A little bit more wear on the heel and toe -- smiling edge.

You could use a 1k grit hone but I don't have one and the sandpaper cuts faster than anything else I've got. If you keep the pressure even, you will be able to even out the bevel.

I have some razors that have uneven bevels and they are great shavers. Even my first shave ready razor from a guru doesn't have the most even bevel around, but what a fine shaver it is.

Since your first sentence in your post mentions that you are new to straight razors then you must realize that there is a learning curve to everything that you are doing. Even if your razor is keen you still will get some areas that won't be shaved close yet alone comfortable. There is a lot to learn in the technique of shaving with a straight. Just learning to strop properly is not that difficult, but even this step will improve with practice. So will finding the correct blade angle with each razor. Just keep reading and keep shaving. Shave the easy area's first and finish off with a DE or whatever to complete the shave. It won't be long before you will get a complete, close and comfortable shave with the straight.

Glen

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. I'm going to go out today and see if I can get a small cheap microscope, some various sandpaper etc and then get back to work on this. I'll lap the stone, do some honing then get back to all with the results.

-----Michael

Make sure that the sandpaper is ok for wet use and good luck!