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Thread: W&B B--tard wedge

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Default W&B B--tard wedge

    Got a pre 1891 W&B wedge and it is a true wedge to try and fix up. Took her apart did what I could with limited skills, reassembled and proceeded to attempt to hone it. Used two strips of electrical tape and started out on a 1000 Naniwa to hone the chips out and set a bevel. Finally got the chips out but had a very uneven bevel but carried on to a 3000 Naniwa any way to see if I could get it to pop hairs. That was a no go so walked away from it for the day.

    Next day having thought about it and the hugely uneven bevel decided to go with 4 strips of tape which was a little better but not quite there yet. So added 2 more strips for a total of six and got a workable but not too pretty bevel. Worked up to a 12000 Naniwa and shave tested. Got a rough shave from a semi sharp blade. So back down to an 8000 Naniwa and 6 strips of electrical tape and work back up. Got a decent shave this morning except for the chin and throat are under it. I think it is still not quite sharp enough yet because of that.

    Just two questions really. Is it normal to have to use 6 strips of electrical tape on a true wedge? I am thinking that I am going to try an extra layer on top of the 6 just on the side of the blade where the edge is still too narrow compared to the other side to try and even things up a bit. Would that work?

    Just a total newbie winging it and doing whatever it takes to try and get an edge. Working with a true wedge has been an interesting and frustrating experience. Mind you actually shaving with a 120+ year old razor more than makes up for the frustrations.

    Bob
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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Pics ????

    True wedges are very very rare, I have seen 2, there is a thread on here about some Theories on how they were actually honed in the past...
    Looking at the bevels and thinking it through I have always thought that either they lifted the "Spine" and honed it like an knife, or there was a "Cheater bar".. Perhaps I am wrong on both accounts and they were honed on a wheel

    But using Tape might be our way around it..


    I would have loved to have seen the bevel and spine relationship before the razor was touched.
    You also very well could have a near wwedge that the spine is worn down they are much more common


    edit: Here is the thread the beginning deals with what you are asking about the end I have no idea

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...honed-day.html
    Last edited by gssixgun; 08-23-2012 at 01:43 PM.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Thanks Glen, I did read the linked thread. You are probably right in that it is a near wedge with hone wear. If I lay a straight edge spine to where the edge starts you can see the tiniest bit of light between it and the blade. Eyeballing it I missed that extremely slight concave.

    I think I will just carry on playing with it like I have been then as I think I am almost there. If it baffles you how they did it then I am really operating in the dark here but I am used to that.

    Before I had a go at it.



    Bob
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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Yeppers a near wedge, Thanks for posting the pic,,

    I would say yer on the right track with the tape, I tend to try to never go over 3 layers as it starts to get a little "Squishy" In the old days and even today it could be re-ground... But it you want to keep a smaller bevel and the wedge feel ya gotta do something with the spine..

    I have thought many times of making a Brass Cheater strip, I know of one quick thinking guy on here, that used a cut Bic pen on one in the past

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    You know I might go looking for some smaller diameter copper pipe to split lengthwise to make a copper cheater strip held in place by electrical tape. Thanks for the tip. So carry on it is. It might have an ugly looking uneven edge in the end but it will darn well be shaving. Man these things are different.

    Bob

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    Senior Member northpaw's Avatar
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    Seems like a tiny binder clip might be convenient. Anybody ever tried one? I'm looking at one of the 3/4" (small) clips from Office Max, and it looks a smidge too big, but I know I've seen smaller ones before.

    Talking about these, for anyone who might know them by a different name.

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    Last edited by northpaw; 08-23-2012 at 04:08 PM.

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    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    On a true wedge I will start with 4 layers of tape. Be sure to get them as evenly draped across the spine as possible. The bevel may be as ugly as can be, but boy will they shave!
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    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I want to see a photo of a "true wedge". A side shot and an in focus point end view.

    I've had wedges dating from the late 1700s up through the Sheffields of the 1800s, all the way to the customs of today. I've never yet seen a wedge that didn't have some concave to enable honing. Here are two of the most well known. The W&B 'barber's use'.

    The 'Celebrated' at the top has more concave than the tang stamped 'barbers use' below but they both have some. If they ain't a true wedge I don't know what is.

    Not saying a 'true wedge' doesn't exist, but in this case .... I'm from Missouri .... you'll have to show me.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Jimmy

    There is just the tiniest bit of concave when I used a straight edge to recheck that I did not see with a mod 1 mark 1 eyeball.

    nun2sharp

    Yea, was careful with the tape to be as even across the spine as possible. Went back and redid it some more, quick test shave and I think I will leave as is for now. We'll see in the morning how great a shaver they can be. I know I sure am starting to like the 1/4 hollows I have so maybe a near wedge will grow on me.

    Bob

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    here are a few pics of my true wedge..
    Attached Images Attached Images   
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