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  1. #11
    < Banned User > suzuki's Avatar
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    Ask the clerk at the store if its not clear from the packaging.

  2. #12
    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    On the back it says something like:

    3M
    401Q
    Imperial
    WETORDRY (one word)
    Paper A Wt.
    -----------------------
    WARNING: Wear eye, face,
    and body protection
    ---------------------------------
    1000

  3. #13
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    So I had a couple of hours to spare yesterday evening and this afternoon, and I figured that I'd practise my honing technique.
    I could not go out to buy sandpaper anyway.

    I did a couple of hunderds of Xes on the blue side, back honing 5 Xes every hunderd laps, followed 100 laps on the red paste and 50 strokes on the leather.

    By now the edge is sharp enough to easily shave the hair on my arm, using spit for moisturizing.
    Does this mean I don't need the sandpaper anymore?
    If so, how to proceed from here?

  4. #14
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    You're probably past that stage. When it starts shaving with no lubrication, hit the yellow and finish that sucker off.

  5. #15
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT View Post
    You're probably past that stage. When it starts shaving with no lubrication, hit the yellow and finish that sucker off.
    Thanks.
    When honing on the yellow, do I need to worry about overhoning?

  6. #16
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    It's a slow cutter so it should be ok as long as you test it every 10 strokes or so. Once the performance stops improving all along the blade, you should give it a shave-test.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Joe Lerch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    Ok I'll do that. I don't have sandpaper of that grit size at the moment, but I have to go to the hardware store tomorrow anyway.
    Do I have to wet it or not?
    You may not be able to get it at an ordinary hardware store. I know Sears has it. Or you can get from an auto parts store that has body repaier supplies.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Joe Lerch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    Thanks.
    When honing on the yellow, do I need to worry about overhoning?
    BTW, the best way to hone on the yellow, IMO, is to create a slurry. You do this with a rubbing stone, or if you don't have one, you can use flat pumice or a babrer hone. Once the slurry looks like a milky puddle on most of the surface, you're ready to go.

  9. #19
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Lerch View Post
    BTW, the best way to hone on the yellow, IMO, is to create a slurry. You do this with a rubbing stone, or if you don't have one, you can use flat pumice or a babrer hone. Once the slurry looks like a milky puddle on most of the surface, you're ready to go.
    I have a slurry stone that is yellow coticule on one side, and blue on the other side.
    I got it for free with the coticule.

  10. #20
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT View Post
    You're probably past that stage. When it starts shaving with no lubrication, hit the yellow and finish that sucker off.

    I just did 120 laps on the blue, applying just a pit of pressure. Basically I just held the middle and ring finger of my left hand on the blade while Xing without actually pressing.

    Then 50 laps on the paste and 20 on the leather.

    Now the hairs on my arm smoothly popping off without lubrication.
    Actually it felt so nice and smooth I sort of accidentally shaved a couple of cm...


    Anyway I'll now switch to the yellow. I'll let you know the results.

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