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Thread: Setting the Bevel/ Using Coarser Stones Question

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    Metallurgical Crusader EricofAriamis's Avatar
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    Default Setting the Bevel/ Using Coarser Stones Question

    Hey gents. I know there is no definite answer to the question I am about to ask you, however, just a ballpark figure would be lovely. How often would one hone, set the bevel, and/or use coarser grits than 4000? I do shave on a regular basis and my beard is a bit coarse. Thanks for any information.

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    ace
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    Senior Member blabbermouth ace's Avatar
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    Grits coarser than 4K are used when 4K either won't do the job or does it too slowly. If the edge has any issues of any kind, has no bevel whatsoever, then 1K is a good place to start. I generally start with 4K and move to 1K only when it is clearly necessary, and it quite often is necessary.

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    Senior Member jpcwon's Avatar
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    You can set the bevel w/a 4k and slurry, it just takes a bit longer. The 1k just expidites the process making it slightly quicker. You can reset the bevel on a razor that already has one; it won't hurt it too much (except for a little metal off of the spine if you don't tape!). So being the veteran honemeister that I am, I always say "when it doubt, set the bevel"...


    Oh btw I'm totally a honing noob so don't listen to me!! You will, however, get some great advice on this site!!
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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    You shouldn't need anything other than your finisher to maintain an edge. 4k & below is for varying degrees of damage.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpcwon View Post
    You can set the bevel w/a 4k and slurry, it just takes a bit longer. The 1k just expidites the process making it slightly quicker.
    A bit of an understatement here - I've had wedges that would take 2 weeks to set a bevel on a 4k...

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    have had blades that I have used my DMT 325 to get the bevel started,bear in mind, these are damaged blades,major chips etc.Have to use what you need to use.

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    Hope this helps. I just ask the same question with my out of the box razors. I re-did my razor bevels because i didn't know if they were set with or without tape? Used the Norton 1k. After that I use the 8k and the 12k to touch up my edges. I also use a chromium pad once a week then strop to keep my blades nicely sharp.

    It did take me a few tries to get the bevel set were it would cut hair off my arms, after I mastered that step it was very easy to use all the stones.

    I lapped all my stones before I used them. I used the norton 220/1k 4k/8k and the 12k Japanese stone.

    My razors are wicked sharp and it's so nice to shave with my rotations.

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    Senior Member stingray's Avatar
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    I have found that sometimes a 2k or 3k cermic stone sets a good bevel if you feel that the 1k is a bit overdoing it. I also have a BBW that will touch up the bevel on an existing shaver. That is one that has been a good shaver in the past.

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    ace
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    I've never found a "burr" on any of my edges and doubt it is a goal to attempt to achieve.
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    ok its been some time but i have messed around alot and this is what i can say about this. just for maintaining a normally used prehoned bevel set blade a 8k and above is what you should need. you can put a really good shving egde with a 8k and a strop. maybe not the most comfy but you can do it. the 12k really helps make the blade alot smoother. a 4k does realy nice set up work after a 1k. i have a 220/1k that i have used and a 1k 4k,8k,12k, balsa with paste and two different strops. i would say if you are not doing any major work on them an 8k,12k and a strop is just great for an average shaver. please also take in mind this is just my 2 cents.

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