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Thread: New to honing - and confused!

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    Default New to honing - and confused!

    Gentlemen-

    I currently have a Norton 4/8k and 220/1000k stone, as well as a DMT 325 that I'm using for lapping. I lapped in the stones using my DMT 325 and they seemed a bit rough yet, with some harsh scratches in the stones and whatnot, so I lapped just a bit on the 220 to break in the DMT. The stones are nice and flat now and, I believe, as smooth as they'll get when lapping with the DMT.

    I started honing an old Germania Cutlery Oxford Razor that showed no signs of being honed whatsoever and as I was setting the bevel, noticed that the hone wear on the edge of the blade was greater in some areas than others on each side of the blade... This made me think that the blade was slightly warped, but appears to be straight as an arrow...

    I'm not sure what to do now as the edge I produced shaves, but not smoothly after progressing through the 4/8k stone, chromium oxide paste, and leather strop. I went back to reset the bevel on the 1k stone and then worked back up to the 4 and 8k but it's still not cutting for squat and I'm pretty unsure about what to do at this point - besides sending my razor to Lynn or Glen with a note that says "Save me, please!" I taped the spine of the razor with electrical tape before honing.

    Any advice or help would be appreciated. I think that I most likely failed in setting the bevel properly - but am not sure. I have honed a couple other older razors that already had a bevel set and they shave wonderfully now. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow if I get the chance. Thank you!

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I would read and watch what this thread has to offer first, try some of the tricks in there...

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html
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    Senior Member jpcwon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rubicon308 View Post
    Gentlemen-

    I currently have a Norton 4/8k and 220/1000k stone, as well as a DMT 325 that I'm using for lapping. I lapped in the stones using my DMT 325 and they seemed a bit rough yet, with some harsh scratches in the stones and whatnot, so I lapped just a bit on the 220 to break in the DMT. The stones are nice and flat now and, I believe, as smooth as they'll get when lapping with the DMT.

    I started honing an old Germania Cutlery Oxford Razor that showed no signs of being honed whatsoever and as I was setting the bevel, noticed that the hone wear on the edge of the blade was greater in some areas than others on each side of the blade... This made me think that the blade was slightly warped, but appears to be straight as an arrow...

    I'm not sure what to do now as the edge I produced shaves, but not smoothly after progressing through the 4/8k stone, chromium oxide paste, and leather strop. I went back to reset the bevel on the 1k stone and then worked back up to the 4 and 8k but it's still not cutting for squat and I'm pretty unsure about what to do at this point - besides sending my razor to Lynn or Glen with a note that says "Save me, please!" I taped the spine of the razor with electrical tape before honing.

    Any advice or help would be appreciated. I think that I most likely failed in setting the bevel properly - but am not sure. I have honed a couple other older razors that already had a bevel set and they shave wonderfully now. I'll try to post some pictures tomorrow if I get the chance. Thank you!
    Sounds like you're in the same predicament that I was in when I started with my Norton 4/8, which was only a few weeks ago. I could not figure out why my razors weren't getting any sharper after using the Norton, but I finally realized that it all comes down to bevel-setting. I bought a King 1k and a Naniwa 1k, and can now pop hair on my arm after using just the 1k. It really makes ALL the difference in the world when you set a proper bevel! I would also recommend buying a 30x Jeweller's Loupe to examine the bevel after hitting it with the 1k. You can get them for like 3 bucks on Amazon. That way, you can really get "up close & personal" with the bevel & make sure it's set properly.

    I was convinced that the entire honing process was going to be just that; a process. However if the bevel is properly set, then the rest should be smooth(er) sailing. I having MUCH better luck with my Norton, now that I know about the importance of bevel-setting.

    As I always say at the end of my posts: I AM still a newb myself, so you'll probably get much better advice from the VERY helpful mentors on this site!!
    Last edited by jpcwon; 11-12-2012 at 07:05 PM.

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    I'm going to attempt to post a couple photos of the razors edge, which probably wont be as helpful as you guys! I'll be considering the Norton thread Glen posted as required reading for myself, and I'll also watch Lynn's honing section on DVD again with a couple cold ones. Name:  IMG_1479[1].jpg
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    Senior Member tiddle's Avatar
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    take the razor and lay it on something that you know is totally flat, check the spine and the edge. If you see light, then there is probably a warp which would expalin the bevel width descrepincy. If not warped, then are you honing with two hands, are you rotating presure to the edge of the blade during your stroke, are you swooping during your x stroke, you could be putting too much pressure which can flex the blade. Lot of variables to take into consideration. Just try to eliminate one at a time.
    Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.

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    I have a blade that has an area that the hone doesn't "get to" very well. That area is near the heel, and I figure that the blade is warped or not properly shaped. I might normally suspect my honing is the cause, but this has only happened with this one particular blade, and it has been restored. I suspect something might have happened during the restoration process, possibly too much buffing in one area. It still shaves well, but the bevel doesn't look as good as those on my other razors.

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    Senior Member tiddle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiddle View Post
    take the razor and lay it on something that you know is totally flat, check the spine and the edge. If you see light, then there is probably a warp which would expalin the bevel width descrepincy. If not warped, then are you honing with two hands, are you rotating presure to the edge of the blade during your stroke, are you swooping during your x stroke, you could be putting too much pressure which can flex the blade. Lot of variables to take into consideration. Just try to eliminate one at a time.
    I know that may not seem helpful, but without hovering over you while you are honing, these are the best guesses that can be made without actually seeing you do it. Good luck
    Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.

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    Sonofabuck! I tried what you suggested, Tiddle, and sure as s**t, the blade is warped. I was totally stoked about this razor too... I have to lift the scales up and down to allow the heel, middle, and toe of the blade to lay flat againt glass. It's a bit bowed, for sure. I can't believe it. At least on the bright side, my honing wasn't the culprit?

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    Now I'm thinking about carrying a flat piece of glass or something around with me when I go straight razor hunting at antique shops. Lol.

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    there is a 95% chance that that razor is 5 minutes away from being perfectly shave ready. Keep that in mind when you proceed to problem solving...
    JeffR and tiddle like this.

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