Thread: A thought on "pulling"

As anyone who spends a minute in the newbie corner will pick up there is a lot of discussion on "pulling". I've noticed that I only shave with portions of the blade and don't have any issues with "pulling".

I went back, again, to read the 1961 Barber's Textbook. Must be my 15th reading. I note that honing in a slight smile isn't referred to as much as an important corrective measure, but as "Advanced honing" and that if the razor remains straight or concave the "customer will complain of pulling".

If you study the picture carefully, you'll see that anyone shaving with a properly honed razor (with a curve set up) might only have contact with a small portion of the center of the edge when shaving.

I can see, dramatically, why this method of honing would drastically eliminate pulling.

Now I know, I've brought this up before and have been poo-poo'd into thinking this isn't important. But, I'm curious if I can open a thread with responses only from those who sit down one more time and review the written page and the coorsponding diagram first.

OK, then I promise I'll not bring it up on this forum ever again.

I take from my reading that a Frown is wrong, a straight edge is good and a smile is something to be pursued. I think it would contribute to having less of the edge on the face at the same time, but it would be most effective as a help to the scything stroke that also seems to eliminate pulling. I don't think the smile is as important as correct technique while shaving ie. using only a small portion of the blade deliberately and taking small bites in a scything motion, but it would make all this easier. A frown would certainly make the above harder. I would guess having a smile acts as an aid in conjunction with correct technique to allow the barber to go faster with less need for as exacting attention than a simple straight edge but it doesn't really effect the quality of the shave he gives that attention to correct technique. Of course then there are the saber ground razors out there, and my best shaver which also has a smile so...

I have noticed there is one place on my face that I generally have the most "pull" in I know it is technique related as it is the softest flattest area of my neck where I use my off hand. There it pulls a little while the opposite side with my strong hand has no pull. I will have to pay more attention to how much edge I am allowing to contact my face in this area and if varying it makes a difference.

Although you're right that a blade trying to cut through a 5cm width of stubborn stubble will have more pull than a 2cm wide cut, I do't think this is the primary reason for n0b complaints about pulling. When you consider proper edge creation on the hone, maintenance from proper stropping, correct shaving and cutting angles, I think there are a lot of reasons for the new straight shaver to experience pull.

X

I'm just now having my first experience with a razor that has a smile--a 5/8 Henkels that I got for a song from another member...

I'm using this razor right off of the 8K, and it's shaving much more effortlessly than the other blades I've tried. As a relative novice, I find it very helpful to be able to use one part of the blade and know that the other parts won't be touching my face.

I'm not sure if this is due to the smile, but it's the main variable that's changed. Further experimentation will doubtless be needed.

My other theory is that my face just likes expensive razors. I sense a bad bout of RAD coming on...

Josh

I should add that I've had a heck of a time learning to shave my chin. Often I run into trouble where the razor starts to stick, and I end up with such bad razor burn that I can't even get a passable shave on my chin.

This smiling Henkels is handling my chin almost effortlessly. Only the slightest pulling, and my technique is still developing.

I think I'll compare it to one of my blades with a straight edge and report my experience.

Thanks,
Josh

Here's my thought, although I don't need to look at the manual, I know it by heart

The "smiling" edge cuts the hairs (given that it moves in scything motion) with the mid-to-tip portion only, or otherwise, with a smaller cutting surface. But what is more important, is that it cuts the hairs with the constant edge-to-hair angle, so the cut is performed quickly, and with an even and consistent pull across the skin. This is the desired "smiling" effect.

On the other hand, the "frowned" edge attacks the hairs with larger portion of the edge (considering the widest surfaces of one's face) and the edge-to-hair angle of attack is different at every portion of the blade when using the scything motion. Therefore, given also the larger attack surface, some hairs are getting cut faster than others, and due to the edge-to-hair angle, more discomfort is felt on the face, because the pulling on the skin is uneven.


how's that for a theory?

cheers,
Nenad

X, point well taken.

Nenad, thats intense. I'm going to have to think about that a while just to picture it.