Thread: Joe Chandler, can I have a honing lesson?

That's why I take the tape off while I'm still honing. The change to the edge geometry is miniscule so it doesn't take too many strokes on the Norton to get it ot the final stage of shave-readiness.

Forgot to answer that part...I keep tape on until I'm finished with the stones (all of them; 1k through Escher). I take it off when I get to stropping.

I'm a little confused by the whole tape thing - do you set the bevel then tape or tape from the start (and do you do it differently with a new vs. an e-bay razor)?

Taping is especially important when you're setting the bevel because it's when you're removing most of the metal. Some new razors don't need that much work, they may even pop a few hairs, that's when tape becomes unnecessary. On the other hand, oldies with oxidized edges will need that oxidized metal removed until you get to intact hard metal, so taping becomes increasingly important.

Originally Posted by suzuki

I'm a little confused by the whole tape thing - do you set the bevel then tape or tape from the start (and do you do it differently with a new vs. an e-bay razor)?

I tape before setting the bevel and like Joe I tend to keep the spine taped save special circumstances.

I've used only stones and not sandpaper. Only because I've never had to yet. If I were to use sand paper I'd likely remove the tape and retape before moving to a stone to prevent sandpaper grit getting into the stone. That's just me though.
Glen F

Joe,

After your escher, do you finish on a pasted strop, or leave it with the stone-finished edge? If you were going to use a pasted strop, would you remove the tape before or after you stropped?

I'm wondering if electrical tape changes the blade geometry enough that you have to leave it on when using pastes on a paddle. (Randy does this, I think, but I'm wondering if the give of the leather is enough that the razor will still benefit from the paste even if the angle is ever so slightly off...)

Josh

The use of tape does not throw off the angle. I have used and removed tape at every stage of the honing process and frankly they all got sharp as hell. I do remove the tape before stropping simply because I hate the look of tape while I am shaving! The perception that the angle created by the manufacturer is sancrosanct, divine, engineering masterpieces, is just not so. The only key is to be consistent.

1000 grit - The purpose is to remove visible nicks and oxidised rust. It is checked with either a micrscope, your eyes, thumbnail test, light reflections, what ever. The bevel will be formed by the 4K stone. The amount of pressure to use is determined by trial. Use a light pressure first and see if the rate of change in the edge is acceptable. If not then use a bit more, etc.

Please note that the use of the 1000 grit is a very harsh move and should only be used when a 4k will not do the trick. Try the 4K first. Try 50 laps and see what happens. It is just a guess on my part but I think that using coarse grits and circular honing motions induce metal fatigue.

Just my two cents.

Originally Posted by suzuki

I'm a little confused by the whole tape thing - do you set the bevel then tape or tape from the start (and do you do it differently with a new vs. an e-bay razor)?

I tape from the beginning, both new and used razors.

Randy,

I agree that there's nothing sacred about the angle set by the manufacturer. It makes sense, since the angles on most blades probably change over time.

The only thing I worry about is whether there's an issue with the angle changing when you remove the tape and then go to a pasted strop. Electrical tape seems thick enough that it would slightly alter the angle, potentially keeping the edge from making contact with the strop if you removed the tape. That would necessitate putting the tape back on for touch ups, which I would find annoying.

Do you find that it's necessary to retape before doing touch ups?

For those of you who only use tape in the early stages of honing, how many strokes on the 4K Norton does it take to eliminate the second bevel after you've removed the tape?

Thanks,
Josh

Interesting point Josh,

I too would like to know if tape effects the hone angle/bevel.

I would have thought it would, so I hone with the tape on for 1K and then from 4k and up leave it off. I guess this would make two bevels but the 1k is only used to remove oxidised metal from the edge.