Thread: Joe Chandler, can I have a honing lesson?

Originally Posted by Joe Chandler

Generally speaking, I use the 1000 grit Norton, although if the edge is very bad, I'll use the Scary Sharp with 600 grit SiC paper (wet). Ross makes this blue gel glue stick that's the best I've found for attaching the paper to the glass...not worth a pinch of monkey poop for anything else, but works great for this application (cheap, too...$1.76 at Wally World for 6 tubes of it). When I get an ebay special in, I'll tape the spine and do about 50 strokes with the 1000 grit. This removes (most of the time) all of the oxidized metal, so I'm working with good stuff again.

Joe,

OK, this is where I think I need help to start out.
-How much pressure do you use at the 1K stage?
-How do you angle the blade during the stroke?
-What do you do if the razor has uneven spine wear?
-What are you trying to achieve at this stage? (Does the edge look very straight under a microscope, or does it have some irregularities?)

Josh

Another question: At what point do you remove the tape? Part way through the 1K passes, or before the 4K, or never....?

Josh

Originally Posted by joshearl

Another question: At what point do you remove the tape?

Josh

I usually remove the tape on my way back from the mailbox with the package of newly honed razors so the package is openned before I even get i the house <g>

You mean you guys actually do this stuff yourselves??? Gosh, how Bohemian!

Tony <g>

Originally Posted by joshearl

Another question: At what point do you remove the tape? Part way through the 1K passes, or before the 4K, or never....?

Josh

Again, this can be a matter of preference. I remove the tape once it starts popping a few hairs. It's just that I've found it easier to get the edge over that final hump without the tape. IIRC, Randy keeps the tape on every time he sharpens a razor of any value, even if it's on the paddle.

Thats where I get lost. If you keep the tape on through the paddle polishing doesn't that offset the edge/spine angle for stropping? At some point don't you have to "fix" the bevel and make it "flat" on the spine so it strops correctly?

That's why I take the tape off while I'm still honing. The change to the edge geometry is miniscule so it doesn't take too many strokes on the Norton to get it ot the final stage of shave-readiness.

Forgot to answer that part...I keep tape on until I'm finished with the stones (all of them; 1k through Escher). I take it off when I get to stropping.

I'm a little confused by the whole tape thing - do you set the bevel then tape or tape from the start (and do you do it differently with a new vs. an e-bay razor)?

Originally Posted by joshearl

Joe,

OK, this is where I think I need help to start out.
-How much pressure do you use at the 1K stage?
-How do you angle the blade during the stroke?
-What do you do if the razor has uneven spine wear?
-What are you trying to achieve at this stage? (Does the edge look very straight under a microscope, or does it have some irregularities?)

Josh

At 1k, you're not using a lot of pressure. It's hard to explain, since I go mostly by feel. I've never put a gauge on it. Just enough that it feels like it's removing metal. My stroke stays consistent throughout the entire honing process, but usually around 70 degrees (perpendicular to the hone being 90 degrees) If the razor has uneven spine wear, you're probably going to have an uneven edge. That doesn't mean it won't hone up fine, but the bevel isn't going to be perfectly even...I honed a brand new Dovo that was slightly uneven. It happens. What the spine does affects what the edge does. With the 1K, all I'm trying to do is establish a rough bevel and remove oxidized metal. The 4k is for really establishing the edge bevel. A wise man once told me that honing is nothing more than establishing a good bevel, then polishing the hell out of it. As far as what I'm trying to achieve; as I said, I'm just reestablishing a bevel and removing oxidized metal from the edge. If done correctly, it'll look straight under a microscope, but the scratch pattern will be very pronounced, rather than looking satiny and smooth, as off the 4k. It can't be done with every razor. Small variances in the razor affect the edge, but you don't want it too extreme. Extreme differences show major problems. I can control it a bit on my regrinds, but not on ones I didn't do myself.