Thread: Setting a bevel with sandpaper

I use a glass plate on my Hand American bench hone with standard wet/dry paper and the Super Grip adhesive. So far it works great. I can tell you that if you get the paper too wet it will start to lift off of the adhesive around the edges. I have found that it is best to stick the paper to the adhesive dry then use a spray bottle to add water. You really do not need much water at all. I use a little tiny spray bottle that the wife used to use for plants. I have only used this with the 1000 grit paper then I move to the Norton 4/8K, then back to the bench hone with Boron Carbide, and Chromium Oxide pasted leather pads. Makes a nice grit transition that works for me so far. 1000, 4000, 8000, 12,000, 20,000 = razor sharp

One consideration not mentioned here is to pay attention to the thickness of the sandpaper. The backing on sandpaper can vary in thickness. Thick sandpaper = more give = rounding of the edge/bevel. Try and use the best, thin sandpaper you can find.

Also, having the paper bunch up in front of the edge is a no-no and can be caused by taping the sandpaper. For that reason I do not tape or glue the sandpaper anymore because of that problem. I just use a very flat surface, get it wet and then lay the presoaked sandpaper on top. Then hone slowly.

I have tried using 2000 grit sandpaper as a substitute for the 4K hone and frankly, it did not work for me. The 8K stone simply was not able to remove the rounding on the bevel.

Just my two cents,

Originally Posted by randydance062449

I have tried using 2000 grit sandpaper as a substitute for the 4K hone and frankly, it did not work for me. The 8K stone simply was not able to remove the rounding on the bevel.

Randy, so you think I need some medium grit stone between the sandpaper and the belgian blue? I don't really want to buy another stone if I don't need to. I have a hard Arkansas white I use for kitchen knives; do you think I could use this after the sandpaper to eliminate any rounding, before going on to the blue?

Originally Posted by dylandog

Randy, so you think I need some medium grit stone between the sandpaper and the belgian blue? I don't really want to buy another stone if I don't need to. I have a hard Arkansas white I use for kitchen knives; do you think I could use this after the sandpaper to eliminate any rounding, before going on to the blue?

The hard white Akansas is not very fine and would probaly be a step backwards from the 1K. However it is worth a shot.
As I answered in your other post I think you should use the 1k followed by the blue belgian with a slurry and initially some pressure. I would avoid the 2k sandpaper.

Just my two cents,

Originally Posted by randydance062449

The hard white Akansas is not very fine and would probaly be a step backwards from the 1K. However it is worth a shot.
As I answered in your other post I think you should use the 1k followed by the blue belgian with a slurry and initially some pressure. I would avoid the 2k sandpaper.

Is the 2k sandpaper more prone to rounding than the 1k?

I know 1k sandpaper is to be avoided - one honemeister said he sees more microchipping when he uses it.

However, after 2 days working on a mid 1800s or so wedge with many microchips (going back, round, whatever) I HAD to go 1000 paper or I would have gone nuts!

So the paper worked like a charm. 5 min or so and I had nice edge under 30x. Then removed the tape and went back to 4K - 40 light passes. Belgian blue - not sure how many, but not that many, and now I'm silvertip HHT sharp (from an old brush, but the supply of test hair is dwindling )

Now I am taking a break. Plan to go Belgian yellow, maybe Escher. Not so sure about CrO2...

Need more time and some shaves to comment on the microchips a/r 1K paper. But I think it might be strongly connected to the quality and characteristics of the steel.

Cheers
Ivo

Originally Posted by dylandog

Is the 2k sandpaper more prone to rounding than the 1k?

It is a mistake to use the 2k sandpaper as a substiitute for the 4k stone. The reason why is that the 8K stone is to fine to remove the rounding unless you have far more patience than me. Been there, done that.


Hope this helps,

Originally Posted by izlat

Need more time and some shaves to comment on the microchips a/r 1K paper. But I think it might be strongly connected to the quality and characteristics of the steel.

Cheers
Ivo

I think you are correct but the difficulty is knowing beforehand which steels would be damaged. Better to play it safe if you can.