Thread: So how do I practice?

Hi,

I have a Norton 4K/8K only. I purchased an Ebay razor for $25 and I wanted to practice honing. It came quite dull so after a long time, I reset the bevel not using any tape on the 4K. I went to the 8K and finally some CromOx and Iron Oxide. Stropped it up and tried shaving this AM. Well it shaved but it really didn't feel too sharp. I didn't expect too much. But my question is now what do I do? I mean do I try dropping back to the 8K and pastes? I'm just not sure how to best approach this and continue practicing. Thanks!

If you get ahold of an eye loupe, I like 30x, you can check out the bevel visually. It takes longer on a 4k so I'd go back to the 4k if it feels like it needs to be sharper. If you are doing pyramids, a good way for a beginning honer IME, just do another one.

How does the bevel look?

Did you try the TNT or the TPT at the 4k as you were usuing it to set the bevel, did you inspect it with a loupe, and or strong light.

Was it poping arm hair off the 4k, topping arm hair? Only on part or along the full length of the bevel?

As I was first starting, and not that I have been at it that long, I used multiple tests at each stage. Now I have certain ones I do at certain stages and know what results I am after.

First question that came to mind with me, and I am no expert by any means, is did you lap the Norton 4k/8k before using it?

I did lap it.

I visually looked (not with a loupe) at the bevel and it seemed relatively even. I would not say it was popping off arm hairs - it took a little effort for me to cut the arm hairs. I didn't try the TNT and the TPT I really haven't a clue what to feel for.

It was taking me so long to get the bevel - WAY longer than Glenn's video took him (although he used a 1K I think). I was getting scared that I was over doing it.

I don't mind going back to the 4K. Just looking for advice here first

EggSuckingLea ch,

First of all, nice name- Second, what type of razor is it you are honing. Is it of good quality, because if you are honing garbage razors the edge will be garbage. You asked if you should step back down to the 4k. I would say "yes" you should based on what you said about the shave. Setting the bevel even does not mean the bevel is set. It is great that the bevel is even, this will make it easy to hone or re-hone later, and it "should have a good edge along the entire length of the blade if the bevel is even. The bevel is simply where those two angles meet. When there is very little metal at the apex of this joint you will be able shave with it. Popping arm hairs does not always work. HHT does not always work either. Just shave with it. I would take it back to the 4k ,get it to where it will shave for you and go from there with your finishing stone, and paste. Yes you can shave with a razor honed on a 1k. It is not very comfortable, but it can be done. You have a 4k same concept maybe a little more comfortable. And yeah that 4k bevel setting is for the birds, especially if you have some good ol high carbon chunks of steel you are honing. Good luck freind

In a seperate thread someone (and fogive me I don't remember who it was or which thread it was in at the moment) picking some DE blades.
This will give you a base line for the TPT and TNT, just realize if YOU use one for the TNT you will have dulled it.
But a pack of Wilkinson Sword blades is inexspensive.

Thanks. I believe the straight steel is quality. It's a vintage razor (don't remember the name offhand). I also have two properly hones straights to compare with. My problem frankly is that I have a pretty "binary" view of this stuff. In other words, either it cuts nicely or it does not. I don't know what tweaking it takes to bring an "ok razor" to an "excellent razor". I have no idea based on feel if the razor goes back to bevel setting or it only needs a couple passes of the 0.1 micron iron oxide. It's hard doing this stuff on your own cold

I started cold as you put it my self. I did all of my light bevel work on my 5k so I would learn to feel the change.
Many times I would get to the shave test and take it back down to the 5k after because I was not satified yet.
If it is cutting realy well but does not feel smooth yet I would go to the 8k for a few laps.
If it is not cutting as well as it should drop to the 4k as the bevel needs more work.
On the 4k setting the bevel will take a lot of time and one miss stroke will set you back 20 laps easy.

The most useful test I've come up with for myself is trying to shave one single short facial hair (about 12 hours after shaving), ATG, while looking with a magnifying mirror. I found that very revealing, because it's as close to the real situation as you'll get, unlike other tests. For me "dull" was going up to the hair and pushing it aside without cutting, better was when the blade caught on the hair and started pulling it, better still was when it pushed the hair and then the hair gave up, but best was when the razor went up to the hair and easily right through it without pushing the hair sideways at all. All of those levels except the first would actually appear to shave, more or less, but bumping things up increased the comfort and efficiency. Initially I had a hard time reaching the last level, but now I've worked out a system and it's straightforward.

You should also be aware that some old razors are easier than others. Generally I like harder, usually old American, steel, but I had one Torrey that just wouldn't get there, and was very frustrating. I had put that aside as hopeless, but just came back to it last week and it was no problem at all.