Thread: how do you know when you're done with the 8k and/or 12k before you move to strop

I look in magnifying glass. When the new abrasive cleaned traces of an old abrasive, it is possible to change a stone. Finisher stone works while the razor won't be tested HHT

Originally Posted by bill3152

After bevel ( cuts arm hair) dull slightly on side of a glass, go to work on the 4k. Tnt and armhair test again. When the whole blade passes go to the 8k.if you get swarf on the 8k go back to the 4k. For me 20 circles 20 laps 20 x strokes is usually enough for the 8. Unless there are lots of scratches left from the 4k. If the 12k is a phig, then 100 laps to start(lol) if naniwa 10-15. Should pass hht at this point, then strop or pasted strop,test shave.

Bill3152: I am curious as to the reason you dull the edge after setting the bevel? It seems counter-productive to the cause of getting the razor sharp. When setting the bevel the whole purpose is to get the two sides of the bevel to meet at the edge. If the edge is then dulled, chances are the bevel sides do not meet anymore and setting previous bevel setting has been for naught. Let me know your reasoning, I am quite interested in this as I've never heard of this process before. Thanks,

Andrew

Andrew,

Not answering for Bill here but I use much the same process often enough

It is a way of making sure that not only the bevel is sharp but also even, many of us that restore use it because the restoration process can leave a rather ragged uneven edge..
You set the bevel for Sharp, then you lightly dull and even it up, then re-set for sharp...

It is rather un-necessary for most honing, but it is a very effective process when needed

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Andrew,

Not answering for Bill here but I use much the same process often enough

It is a way of making sure that not only the bevel is sharp but also even, many of us that restore use it because the restoration process can leave a rather ragged uneven edge..
You set the bevel for Sharp, then you lightly dull and even it up, then re-set for sharp...

It is rather un-necessary for most honing, but it is a very effective process when needed

Thanks Glen. When you say a ragged uneven edge do you mean that the bevel is uneven, or that the metal at the edge is compromised in some way and must be removed by dulling?

Lately, if I can successfully pass an HHT and not tell whether the hair is root in or root out, then off it goes for stropping. This is not foolproof, however, as my recent regular usage of a loupe has shown. I've let some ragged edges go with this test that a loupe would have shown needed more work.

Still learning.

I seem to rely on HHT alot, even with its frailties. On an 8k edge, I should be lopping a hair about 3/4" from point of hold. When it lops an inch+ from the 12k, I'm happy (sometimes prematurely) and strop. Jerry's point about *how* the hair falls is a good one. On my better edges, the severed part of the hair has already fallen over the opposite side of the blade before it completely separates. The only stone where this hasn't been reliable for me is the coti. (these rocks exist to drive me nuts). I tend to get fabulous HHT results from them, but the shave isn't as good as it should be. 'Seems like I can always improve their edge by using another rock.

I cannot imagine a more accurate indicator than "how" the hair falls when it comes in contact with the razor's edge. Also the sooner the hair falls (with less resistance) straight down when it contacts the razor edge indicates the level of sharpness.

Simply put, the sharper the edge, the more easily the hair will be cut with no perceptible vibration/resistance. Pure and simple.

More simply put, watch the comparison between how the hair falls and the closeness and smoothness of the shave. There is a definite correlation. And don't kill the shave ready edge by stropping improperly. We can only imagine how often that has happened.

[QUOTE=mrsell63;1186543]I cannot imagine a more accurate indicator than "how" the hair falls when it comes in contact with the razor's edge. Also the sooner the hair falls (with less resistance) straight down when it contacts the razor edge indicates the level of sharpness.

Simply put, the sharper the edge, the more easily the hair will be cut with no perceptible vibration/resistance. Pure and simple.

More simply put, watch the comparison between how the hair falls and the closeness and smoothness of the shave.

That's why the HHT is so valuable! I start at the 8k level and every step above that even after the strop to make sure it improves along the way. The ultimate is the shave test yes, but the shave test always passes with flying colors on an HHT 4-5 IMO anyway. My advice to anybody would be to learn how to use the HHT.