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Thread: Honing nicks
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07-15-2013, 12:31 PM #11
Although i have no updates to give you, i do appreciate all of the input and hope to apply some of what has been discussed. Between work, mowing grass (ugh), and a few other seasonal commitments it seems i barely find time to sleep as of late. Hopefully I will soon be back to the stones. Thx
The value and interest of life is not so much to do conspicuous things.........as to do ordinary things with the perception of their enormous value.
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07-15-2013, 02:00 PM #12
I appear one of the few that actually uses quite a bit of pressure when reprofiling a razor on a DMT8C (I have some with excessive honewear that I tried to even out). I raised the spine to some 30-45 degrees and used three fingers to even the pressure along the edge. When the shape of the razor was good, I added two layers of tape and again used 3 fingers to set a rough bevel on the DMT8C. When that rough bevel was done, I had worn out the two layers of tape almost completely and moved on to a Shapton 1K to set a proper bevel.
This is quite a rash method for nicks, unless they are, say, 1mm or bigger and a lot of steel (1mm along the entire edge) needs removing.
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07-15-2013, 02:11 PM #13
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Thanked: 247Are they nicks or rust spots that someone buffed?
I ask because someone sent a beautiful DD to me to hone and it was apparent that it had deep pitting that had been buffed to a beautiful shine (from 3 feet away). It was like honing Swiss cheese, every time I honed past one pit, a new one somewhere else was intercepting the bevel.
Hopefully that is not your case
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07-15-2013, 03:04 PM #14
Unless the chip is large and visible to the naked eye I just tape the spine and do circles on a 1k Chosera. I've never had an issue getting past micro chips with this method and in a timely manner. For the aforementioned larger chips I might go to the 600 DMT or even, in one specific past case, the 325. When I check and chip is almost completely gone I begin normal honing and by the time I'm done it is usually a clean edge. Just IME.
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07-15-2013, 03:52 PM #15
Just a heads up. Since DMTs cut deeply, do not do circles with them. Use only strokes / laps perpendicular to the edge of the hone. I had some edge collapse / corrosion issues that were caused by deep scratches along, and roughly parallel to the edge on the bevel.
When I looked at the edge, I could see where the bevel had been weakened by those scratches.
~Richard
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07-15-2013, 03:58 PM #16
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07-15-2013, 04:15 PM #17
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The Following User Says Thank You to bill3152 For This Useful Post:
Geezer (07-16-2013)
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12-20-2013, 07:01 AM #18
I just picked up an 1800s mappin & webb 4 piece set with case. Three of the blades have nicks, One SR is rather deep and it appears I am dealing with all 4/8. Any suggestions working with such short honing space of blade left? This would be my first job honing an SR.
Last edited by SRK; 12-20-2013 at 09:53 AM.
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12-20-2013, 09:02 AM #19
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Thanked: 38Photo?
That would be very helpful otherwise you can only get "general" advice.
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12-20-2013, 09:47 AM #20
I tried uploading from my mobile it wouldnt work. The Mappin & Webb are 4/8 that need a deep nick honed out. They were the rare mabbin & webb 4 piece case set before they began making the 7 piece days of week and tennis sets.
Last edited by SRK; 12-20-2013 at 09:53 AM.