Thread: Yanagiba polishing

Originally Posted by Laurens

Thanks! So you really put it flat on the hone? That sounds pretty tough for me, considering I used 3 layers of tape on my near wedge.

The back is hollow so I used the tips of the stones in the picture to evenly do small amounts at a time. After the 800 I used some wetndri paper up to 2000 grit to smooth it more. Next will be small Jnat pieces called Hazuya or Jizuya to colour & further refine the back. Haven't started the front of the knife yet.

When I hone it, this side will be laid flat on the stone & fingers X'd, will result in small bevels at spine & edge

Originally Posted by onimaru55

The back is hollow so I used the tips of the stones in the picture to evenly do small amounts at a time. After the 800 I used some wetndri paper up to 2000 grit to smooth it more. Next will be small Jnat pieces called Hazuya or Jizuya to colour & further refine the back. Haven't started the front of the knife yet.

When I hone it, this side will be laid flat on the stone & fingers X'd, will result in small bevels at spine & edge

I see, nice! I look forward to seeing the results. You prefer to do this by hand rather than using a buffer?

Originally Posted by Laurens

I see, nice! I look forward to seeing the results. You prefer to do this by hand rather than using a buffer?

I probably could have used a buffer on some areas to speed things up but certainly not near the tip.
On the omote where the front needs to be flat above the shinogi line, a stone is probably best. Depending on how wobbly the bevel is a belt sander or stone will be my choice to remove any dips.

Originally Posted by Laurens

I see, nice! I look forward to seeing the results. You prefer to do this by hand rather than using a buffer?

Using a buffer on fine Japanese steel? dear lord save me.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Using a buffer on fine Japanese steel? dear lord save me.

It's the application of the tool that is important. This knife was originally ground on a huge belt sander after all.
I was thinking a 2" wheel & some greaseless compound my have saved some of the 180 grit drudge work prior to hand sanding.
Some of these cheaper knives are about as straight as a washboard but of course on fine Japanese steel it would not even be necessary.

If a cheap Knife than a buffer would work I suppose,would be a treat tho to see it all done with stones in the traditional way.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

If a cheap Knife than a buffer would work I suppose,would be a treat tho to see it all done with stones in the traditional way.

I'll get there but I'm not seeing any obvious grain in the steel as yet.. The synthetics are just quicker for the heavy lifting.

Here is the front after an exploratory rub on some rocks. Some obvious irregularities in the surface

320 grit Shapton pro. Nearly done with the flat above the Shinogi.